I'd say - use the FG can scope when it's convenient. Since measuring precise values of ESR isn't generally very important (if you are just testing for bad caps), you can get by very well with a home made ESR meter when you don't want to break out the FG and scope. Here's a video (that I've posted here before) of the ESR meter that I made back in 2006.
I love your all Video Blogs, your straight forward approach to teaching us Luddite's to the finer points of scopes and test equipment is a breath of fresh air and I am inspired to make one of your ESR meters to help me at work as I often find bad caps in the sub sea cameras that are used in my job.
We are advised by our company to return these faulty cameras to be repaired, but due to working off shore we often in need of getting the cameras working if the spare is as usual of a lower quality.
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I often find bad caps, duff resistors or shorted voltage regulators are usually responsible for most of our camera failures, this is probably due to the huge temperature changes these cameras experience above and below sea level.
I have hand written a copy of the schematic from the your video, but as more an industrial electrician by trade I need a bit of help with understanding the circuit.
I am hoping to build this cheaply and I will probably use a LM358 (already have one in parts bin) for the DC restore and I have just ordered a 4049 Buffer, but I am wondering what is best to use for the moving coil display?
Should I order a cheap Chinese analogue DMM and butcher the display or should I use some other part with the same spec (which I do not know) as your meter?
Would greatly appreciate a bit of help on this matter