Mitutoyo 500-196-30 authenticity question

[crippledchicken]

Hello everyone, is it (fact) that the newer versions of these calipers have the origin button sticking up like the other buttons instead of being recessed? Everything else checks out good according to several you tube videos. Also, what kind of lead clips would I need to test amperage draw in battery socket? I would like to test that also just for peice of mind. I have a Fluke 87V I plan to use for the testing. Thanks!  I hope this is the correct place for these questions. One of the you tubes said the recessed origin buttons ceased in 2018 and all newer buttons stick up above the plastic surface. A guy on another you tube had 2 legit calipers and two from Ebay. The origin buttons on the legit stuck up. Origin buttons on the fakes were recessed. There were several other alerts also, on the Ebay calipers. Hope I'm describing things clear enough lol!

[jpanhalt]

The Mitutoyo site, which presumably shows authentic models, shows the zero button to stick up.

https://www.mitutoyo.com/webfoo/wp-content/uploads/2129-AOS-Calipers.pdf

Did you get an interface cable?  They are fairly easy to read.  The protocol is or was different than cheap fakes.  But then, maybe the fakes have improved.

[crippledchicken]

No type of interface cable if it's to connect to the calipers, this model doesn't have provisions for it. Thanks! 

[jpanhalt]

Clough42 has reviewed how to tell real from fake.  I assume from your original post you have seen it already.  If not, here's the link:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Does+Mitutoyo+500-196-30+always+have+an+interface+port%3F&oq=Does+Mitutoyo+500-196-30+always+have+an+interface+port%3F&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i512i546l3.28904j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:4177c858,vid:KG6I2gNGVwM,st:682

I have found him pretty reliable for a variety of things.  Did you buy it used off eBay or new?  If new, there are very few real bargains on eBay or Amazon for that matter.*

Good luck.

*Just this past week, I bought a PTO coupler with clutch off Amazon.  It was clearly stated to be new and manufactured by Eurocardan.  With shipping I saved $60 on about $220.  Next day, I called the seller in Ohio, and the rep. immediately said it was not Eurocardan.  Gave the usual excuse that Amazon makes mistakes in listings.  She kindly cancelled and issued a refund immediately before shipping.

[wraper]

Current consumption measurement is the most definitive way to confirm fake/genuine.

[crippledchicken]

The ones in question I bought through Walmart online. I just received the Mitutoyo 500-752-20 calipers yesterday from Amazon. Thank you!🙂

[crippledchicken]

Yes, that's one of the videos I watched.

[jpanhalt]

The ones in question I bought through Walmart online. I just received the Mitutoyo 500-752-20 calipers yesterday from Amazon. Thank you!🙂

Through Walmart or Amazon?  Was the seller Amazon?  Which are we talking about the 500-752-20, 500-196-30 or both?  The -30 seems to be sold by every home and Gift...I would be suspicious too.  It is not a typical home tool.

As for measuring the current, how does the battery attach?  Is it accessible while in the device, or does it slide out in a tray?

Walmart, despite claims, does no  vetting of its marketplace sellers.  I can recount some horror stories a few years ago with a seller who is still on Walmart.

Edit2:
If Walmart, I would return and get a refund.  I used "item different than described."  I still got my money back eventually, but it was complicated.  Others who fell for the scam simply said,"item not received."  They got to keep the worthless "empty box," no questions asked and a refund.  Of course, if item is different than described, then item was not received.  I was too naive to take that route.

[crippledchicken]

I need to order some type of test lead adapters that I can use to clip onto the small battery contacts inside the calipers. I suppose, I could use a 1.5v battery for the current testing? Any suggestions on test clips to safely perform the testing? Thank you! 🙂

[jpanhalt]

I need to order some type of test lead adapters that I can use to clip onto the small battery contacts inside the calipers. I suppose, I could use a 1.5v battery for the current testing? Any suggestions on test clips to safely perform the testing? Thank you! 🙂

That would be hard to answer without pictures of how the battery fits.  See my edits.

[wraper]

I'd simply use multimeter probes connected to lab PSU/multimeter.

[jpanhalt]

I'd simply use multimeter probes connected to lab PSU/multimeter.

Sounds simple enough.  Can you post an image of how to do that when the battery slips into a very tight slot using typical probes?

[crippledchicken]

The 196-30 are from Walmart bought about a year ago. The 752-20 were bought through Amazon. Contacted Mitutoyo with photo of the 500-752-20 and was told they looked Genuine. He said that model is not one that they seen counterfeited. He said the 500-196-30 model is counterfeits quite often. The pair I have check to be good in every way except, the current draws which, I haven't performed yet. Thanks. Folks! 🙂

[wraper]

I'd simply use multimeter probes connected to lab PSU/multimeter.

Sounds simple enough.  Can you post an image of how to do that when the battery slips into a very tight slot using typical probes?

Simply poke battery terminals and look on current measurement. Real Mitotoyo should consume a few uA IIRC, counterfeit over 10uA.

[jpanhalt]

The 196-30 are from Walmart bought about a year ago.

A year ago?  This thread is moot.  Learn from your mistake.

[crippledchicken]

Until I get the small test leads, there's still a possibility the 500-196-30 calipers are ligit. According to 3 or 4 videos, they appear Genuine. I still need to check the amperage draw on (both) sets though. 

[aeberbach]

Got one from the Australian distributor 3 months ago. The only button that sits lower than the others is "in / mm". "ORIGIN" button is smaller than "ON / OFF" or "ZERO / ABS". Current is probably the way to be sure, this does not turn automatically off and does not drain battery either.

[crippledchicken]

Looks exactly like mine! Thank You 

[DavidKo]

I have bought one fake (clearly it was not absolute - during fast movements it changed the zero) and returned it. Later I have bought genuine from official distributor. It make no sense for me to buy the cheap one. It will last me forever since I'm not mechanist.

[crippledchicken]

Anyone have an idea what test clips are being used on the battery contacts in the video link  jpanhalt referenced me to? I believe it's the 4th post from the top of this thread. The ones I ordered are a little too large but, I did get the measurements done. Per the video, my measurements seem to indicate both of my calipers are genuine. These are the ones I ordered.  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1T668QM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Any suggestions on some smaller ones would be great! 

[jpanhalt]

I hope it's obvious that you do not want test clips on both sides of the battery.  To measure current directly, you need to be in series with the battery.  Two thin sheets of copper with an insulator between them slipped on one side might work.  I asked way back then how the battery was installed in the caliper.  That is, slot or receptacle with a top.  For  slot, you can get very thin double-sided pcb or even double-sided flat flexible cable.  Even two very thin pieces of any conductor might work.  Brass and SS are readily available as thin as 0.0005"     

[crippledchicken]

It has the receptacle type on top with a cover that slides off. The way I hooked up, the ground from battery went straight to battery ground inside caliper. The battery positive ran to micro amp socket on meter. The common jack on meter ran to caliper positive pin. Was this correct? Actually, battery is on the side of caliper. I had supply + running through fluke meter to + terminal on caliper battery socket.