Make Electronics book 2nd edition components list?

[scatterandfocus]

UPDATE:  I have created a list which you can find here:  https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/make-electronics-book-2nd-edition-components-list/msg2690322/#msg2690322

I'm wondering if anyone knows of a parts list/cart at any of the major U.S. suppliers (Mouser, Digikey, etc.) for the Make Electronics 2nd edition book.  I have already made my own list from the book in plain text, but if there is already a cart at Mouser, for example, that could make things much easier, even if I decide to get some of the components from elsewhere.  If not, I guess I will be making one to share.

Also, is there a downside to metal film over carbon comp resistors?  I see lots of inexpensive metal film assortments on ebay.  I don't really see any assortments on Mouser.  And I have read that it is best to buy transistors and ic's from a reputable supplier (because of counterfeiting), and to get passive components from elsewhere to save on cost.  So I'm thinking of getting some passive assortments from ebay and filling in any missing values at Mouser along with the active components.

[bd139]

Metal film resistors are better. Far more stable.

If you want a reasonable selection of mostly trustworthy parts, use Tayda Electronics. They sell 1/4W metal film resistors in packs of ten so you can just buy as many as you need of each value and they are really cheap. Only buy the Royal Ohm ones as they are decent quality - the unbranded ones are shit. Also avoid the ebay selections - they are full of weird values or are the worst quality they could muster with hair thin legs.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/

[dnwheeler]

You can get a complete component kit in a case on Amazon for the 2nd Edition.

[ledtester]

There seem to be two suppliers of kits - Chaney Electronics and ProTechTrader.

Here are the product pages for the Chaney Electronics kits which lists their contents (see the referenced PDF files):

https://www.electronickitsbychaneyelectronics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CM1001

https://www.electronickitsbychaneyelectronics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CM1002

https://www.electronickitsbychaneyelectronics.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CM1003

The ProTechTrader product page is not as detailed:

https://www.protechtrader.com/Make-electronics-component-pack-1-2nd-edition

[bd139]

I wouldn't buy packs of stuff like that. They're overpriced and at least half of my time with electronics is hunting down parts so practicing that is good too

[ledtester]

And I have read that it is best to buy transistors and ic's from a reputable supplier (because of counterfeiting)

In the case of the 2n2222 transistors, I wouldn't worry about getting counterfeits from ebay. Most small signal bipolar transistors are interchangeable with each other - at least for beginner type applications - and they are not likely to get damaged during shipment due to poor packaging.

See also this recent thread:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/why-use-2n3904-vs-2n2222/

[scatterandfocus]

I wouldn't buy packs of stuff like that. They're overpriced and at least half of my time with electronics is hunting down parts so practicing that is good too

That is my line of thinking on it.  I was aware of those kits from ProTechTrader and Chaney before writing up a components list.  And I can see those kits having their place, but they aren't for me.  Finding out something about, where to acquire components, qualities and specifications of component types, manufacturers of components, is good stuff to know for future projects.

[ryanb9]

you can get kits on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/EL-KIT-008-Project-Complete-Ultimate-TUTORIAL/dp/B01EWNUUUA

[scatterandfocus]

bd139, thanks for mentioning Tada.  Their site is easy to navigate, they might end up having most of what is on my list, prices and standard shipping are low.  I might have to add some various other components to my cart to play around with, too. 

[scatterandfocus]

I ran into some missing capacitor values at Tada (book says that either electrolytic or ceramic are ok for all caps):  15uF, 68uF

For sake of getting all the caps in the same place (possibly saving on shipping cost), and since this is non-critical beginner breadboard stuff, I think it should be ok combining two caps that add up close to the required values such as:

6.8uF + 10uF = 16.8uF in place of 15uF
47uF + 22uF = 69uF, in place of 68uF

It seems that this shouldn't be a problem since the book says that all caps should be at least 16V and other ratings are of no concern, which I also assume includes tolerance.  The book calls for electrolytic and ceramic caps, saying that it doesn't matter which are used but that it is recommended to use ceramic for values below 10uF because of price.  Any way, Tada has neither electrolytic or ceramic for these missing values (15uF and 68uF), but they do have tantalum values that could be added to electrolytic values.  It seems a bit odd to do that, and I don't know if it would cause problems.  Maybe I will just get these missing values (and other missing components) elsewhere.  But I'm still wondering if there should be any problems mixing various types of caps.  And I'm just curious to look at analog signatures of different types of caps on an oscilloscope.

[scatterandfocus]

Just so others know, this stuff takes a while.  I have probably put in around 10 hours so far in making a components list and adding maybe 1/3 of the list to my cart.  But that includes looking up various component specifications and reading other useful information along the way.  I can see that this is going to be maybe a 3 or 4 day project.  But if I just bought kits, I wouldn't be learning anything about the components that I am choosing.

Also, I ran into a couple more components that I can't find at Tada.  Single AA battery holder.  I am substituting for a double AA battery holder and will use a jumper for a single battery.  Low current LED's (forward current of 3.5mA or less).

Once I clean up my components list so that it is more legible for others, I will add it to this thread along with notes about missing values, substitutions, and such.

[ledtester]

  But I'm still wondering if there should be any problems mixing various types of caps.  And I'm just curious to look at analog signatures of different types of caps on an oscilloscope.

There shouldn't be any problems mixing capacitor types.

And don't sweat the capacitor values. They are at best 5% parts anyway.

Also, I ran into a couple more components that I can't find at Tada.  Single AA battery holder.  I am substituting for a double AA battery holder and will use a jumper for a single battery.  Low current LED's (forward current of 3.5mA or less).

LED technology has vastly improved over the years. They have become brighter and much more efficient. Instead of the conventional 330R resistor for driving an LED with 5V I now routinely use 1K. 10mA used to be the norm for driving LEDs, but in my experience all recently produced LEDs will illuminate adequately at just a few milliamps.

[bd139]

I ran into some missing capacitor values at Tada (book says that either electrolytic or ceramic are ok for all caps):  15uF, 68uF

For sake of getting all the caps in the same place (possibly saving on shipping cost), and since this is non-critical beginner breadboard stuff, I think it should be ok combining two caps that add up close to the required values such as:

6.8uF + 10uF = 16.8uF in place of 15uF
47uF + 22uF = 69uF, in place of 68uF

It seems that this shouldn't be a problem since the book says that all caps should be at least 16V and other ratings are of no concern, which I also assume includes tolerance.  The book calls for electrolytic and ceramic caps, saying that it doesn't matter which are used but that it is recommended to use ceramic for values below 10uF because of price.  Any way, Tada has neither electrolytic or ceramic for these missing values (15uF and 68uF), but they do have tantalum values that could be added to electrolytic values.  It seems a bit odd to do that, and I don't know if it would cause problems.  Maybe I will just get these missing values (and other missing components) elsewhere.  But I'm still wondering if there should be any problems mixing various types of caps.  And I'm just curious to look at analog signatures of different types of caps on an oscilloscope.

This is all typical annoyances and you’re approaching it the correct way. When I design anything I spend a hell of a lot of time doing parts optimisation to try and keep things to the E3 (10 22 47) values where possible so I don’t have to buy and keep a lot of parts in.

As for mixing capacitors don’t worry about this to start with. Only thing to worry about is getting your electrolytics and tantalum capacitors the wrong way round. When you progress you’ll learn about what caps to use where. There are some simple rules to follow.

[scatterandfocus]

I just noticed that I have been typing Tada instead of Tayda.  Doc said my eyes are good.  Where can I get glasses for my brain?

ledtester, I only see LED's on Tayda with either 20mA or 30mA forward current.  It's no big deal, as I'm sure that I will have to order some components from at least one other place.  But I do prefer getting the bulk of the components from a single source to save on shipping cost and so that I don't get 50 packages in the mail.  The mail lady already hates me after my recent round of buying old analog boat anchor test gear.  She already pretends sometimes to have attempted to deliver stuff (leaves it in her truck) so that she doesn't have to carry it to the front door, and I have to go pick it up the next day.  If I keep it up she might start making my packages disappear.

bd139, is E3 a common term / design principle, or is that a personal thing?

[bd139]

Sounds like Royal Mail here 

E-series is defined here better than I can : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E_series_of_preferred_numbers

I mostly optimise my designs because I don't want to have to go shopping every time I come up with a design. I just want to hit the bench and build it! Turns out with some head scratching you can make some careful compromises and still come out with perfectly functional circuits. A good piece of inspiration is from Ashhar Farhan who designed an entire SSB transceiver with this in mind. Literally very few different parts (line items) required:



A good exception to note above is that there's 1x 120K resistor in there. They are all 5% tolerance so you can just shove a 100k and 22k in series which are both E3 series. To make compromises like that rather than having to hunt down a 120k resistor is very very productive.

From a manufacturing point of view it makes things simpler still.

[ledtester]

ledtester, I only see LED's on Tayda with either 20mA or 30mA forward current.

Go with their "super bright" leds - there's a review which says they work well at 2ma. The "luminous intensity" is an indication of brightness and efficiency. The "20ma forward current" could be a maximum. Get a couple of each and you can get a feeling of what the intensity rating means in terms of visual brightness, driving current, etc.

[ledtester]

Here's a discussion about the KENTO 540URC LED which suggests the "20ma" rating is a maximum:

https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113742.msg1053874#msg1053874

[scatterandfocus]

Thanks much bd139 and ledtester.  See, if I just bought kits I wouldn't have interacted with other knowledgeable people and found out about these sorts of things.

Looks like I'm going to have to find the DIP CMOS 74HCxx  stuff elsewhere.  Tayda only has a couple of these part numbers:

74HC00 2-input NAND
74HC08 2-input AND
74HC32 2-input OR
74HC02 2-input NOR
74HC27 3-input NOR
74HC393 counter

[ledtester]

I would just get them at Mouser or Digikey - their prices are roughly the same as Tayda's and you'll get genuine chips which will be well packaged.

[bd139]

Get the extras at Mouser for sure.

For ref, the Tayda ones come in anti-static foam and bags usually. Never had any problems with fake parts. I think they sold some hooky 1N34A's a while back and that was about it.

[scatterandfocus]

A quick look on Mouser isn't showing any DIP packages for the 74HCxx stuff.  Jameco has everything except 74HC27.  Digikey has everything for around the same prices.  Thanks ledtester.  The total for all the Texas Instruments 74HCxx chips (DIP CMOS) is $5.80 (not including tax + shipping), and that is with two parts each.  The book requires 1 each but suggests getting 2 each in case of failure. 

[bd139]

Everything is going surface mount now. It's worth buying some adapter boards from China and soldering the SM packages to them. It's not at all hard and saves a lot of cash

[ledtester]

"SN" is just a prefix TI puts on their 74HCxx chips:

https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Logic-ICs/Logic-Gates/_/N-581znZ1yzvvqx?P=1z0z63x&Keyword=74hc00&FS=True

The suffixes "E4" and "N" refer to other manufacturing characteristics like RoHS compliance, lead- (or not-lead) free, etc.

[ebastler]

A quick look on Mouser isn't showing any DIP packages for the 74HCxx stuff. 

Maybe that look was a bit too quick then? While the selection of 74 series chips has shrunk over the years (no matter in in which package), those which are still available are also available in DIP packages. And of course Mouser has them too:
https://eu.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Integrated-Circuits-ICs/Logic-ICs/_/N-6j77x?P=1z0z63xZ1z0y3hmZ1z0xt33

[scatterandfocus]

Everything is going surface mount now. It's worth buying some adapter boards from China and soldering the SM packages to them. It's not at all hard and saves a lot of cash

I will add them to my list of things to buy.  Thanks.