So, I got myself a new project. Repairing an old 1974 brazilian amplifier (I'm also brazilian, by the way).
The model is a Gradiente Lab-75. I got it almost for free from an ebay-like marketplace we have here. The seller described as "Working perfectly, needs repair".
When I opened it up I immediately saw completely melted transistors and some loose wires. One of the channels (the one with melted transistors) had it's output disconnected. So, I started by replacing the original 1974 electrolytic caps and the melted transistors. Also replaced the output transistors for the original ones since the one in there were different (even though they were testing ok).
When I powered it on, I actually found the origin of the short. At first, I did some static tests I thought the origin of the short was one of the transistors. It actually wasn't. There was a film cap shorted. With the new transistors in, I got to this cap and replaced it for now with a ceramic just for now until I get the film cap to replace it.
The thing is, one of the transistors are still overheating (T6). I was studying the schematics and concluded the only place that could be having problems were the bias diodes. All the resistors around it are measuring ok. I did find an apparently bad resistor in the power line which might be making everything worse. I'll replace it.
The schematic I have in hand now looks to be a latter revision, it's not a good quality one and looks like it has some things different from what I'm seeing in the actual amp. Some components have two part numbers in the schematic (most of them obsolete parts) and the board only shows the older part numbers. The electrolytics had dates marked for early 1974. So I'm supposing this is and earlier model since this amp was released in 1974. So, it's kind of a perfect storm for a beginner, right?
Starting from the main strange thing I'm getting from the power supply: the schematic shows the transformer with two taps. One looks like 3v but might be 5V (yeah, the schematic is that bad) to power the indicator lamps which does measure 5V. The other tap is supposed to be 32V outputting (after a full bridge rectifier) 43/45/48V (the second digit is just a black blob of ink/pixels). I checked the diodes, they seem ok. The oscilloscope show a perfect straight line when I look at it. Almost no ripple. The cap after the bridge is a 2200uF and I got a new one to replace it, but when I was going to replace it I noticed the original one had four legs. I don't know yet if it's a dual capacitor (no indication on the body of the cap or the schematic) or if it's just for mechanical support. Haven't gone back there since since I see nothing that caught my attention in the oscilloscope.
The actual problem that led me to creating this post is: The strange diodes. There are 5 of them in each channel.
First is the OF128 (two in each channel) which I can't find any datasheets anywhere. There's one of them that seems not to be working but the other ones are measuring 0.7v drop across them, so I'm assuming they are just regular diodes.
The three other ones are a bit of a problem. The schematic indicates the part number BZX75 for the three of them. But the silk screen on the board says one is a BZX75C1V4 and one other is a BZX75C2V1. This ones I can find a datasheet for them and they are stabistors. C1V4 and C2V1 are the drops across the stabistors. And there is a third one with no markings on the board and the schematic only shows BZX75. And this one measure no drop across it in both channels. I'll have to remove and try to read those teeny tiny little letters in there.
So, the good thing is that all the drops are multiples of 0.7v, the bad thing is I'm a newbie and I don't know if can just put a couple of 1N400X diodes in series and it will be fine. I know that stabistors are more about the voltage drop than about the rectifying thing. Is there a better suited replacement diode for this application? Or any diode drop will be ok?
I'll see if I can attach the schematics I have here for you guys to take a look too.