Soldering headphones, headsets and some mics with tiny threads and copper wire?

[nzo]

Hi All,
It seems that many expensive and cheaper headsets etc now come with this strange super-flexible woven thread/copper combo as the wire that attaches to the phone/mic and plug ends.

Does this wire have a technical name? All my attempts to solder it with good flux and solder have failed abysmally. I now have several headsets and one mic waiting for a miracle solution

I realize the wire's flexibility is to make the headsets last longer but even with the best intentions and gentle handling the much flexed wire breaks.

How does one crimp such a tiny wire on to a solderable connector?

Hoping the magic EEV'ers here can offer a solution that doesn't relegate an otherwise good device to a landfill.

Thanks a lot for your help!

John

[c4757p]

Tinsel wire. Move a blob of hot solder around on the tip for a while, the insulation will eventually burn off.

The article mentions it's fragile when soldered, but I've never had that problem. Just make sure you anchor the wire somewhere else so you're not relying on the solder joint for mechanical strength. You should be doing that anyway.

[nzo]

Thanks. Don't know why but this blobbing technique doesn't work for me.

[IanB]

Hint here: http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=86517

See Alan's post halfway down.

If the metal foil is made from aluminium rather than copper, then making solder stick to it will be nearly impossible.

[IanB]

Another story here: https://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php?topic=42075.0

Sounds like a pain. Still, I guess you know what search terms to use now...

[romovs]

Conductive adhesive works wonders with Tinsel. Just apply some epoxy over the joint once it cures to secure it better.

[nzo]

That sounds brilliant romovs. Is this adhesive really conductive?

[Rufus]

I don't think what the OP is talking about is tinsel wire.

A lot of modern headphone and mic cables are made with multiple thin strands of self fluxing wire like

http://www.yonsa.com/en/procon.asp?id=273

The polyurethane coating is sometimes the only insulation inside the cable and the coating color may be used to identify the cores.

You need a hot iron to get the coating to melt and even then it is hard to get started. Try to get some solder onto the copper at the cut end, possibly carefully scrape away some coating right at the end. Once you have some copper tinned the coating is heated from the inside and it becomes much easier.

[nuhamind2]

I think it's called litz wire. It's like what c4757p write, make sure the cable submerged in the blob, if it's just touching might not work. flux might help

[IanB]

I don't think what the OP is talking about is tinsel wire.

A lot of modern headphone and mic cables are made with multiple thin strands of self fluxing wire like

http://www.yonsa.com/en/procon.asp?id=273

The polyurethane coating is sometimes the only insulation inside the cable and the coating color may be used to identify the cores.

If that's the case it may help to turn up the iron temperature. Say 750F, 400C, which is hotter than normal for tin/lead solder.

[romovs]

That sounds brilliant romovs. Is this adhesive really conductive?

It's all relative .
The one I was using had around 10^-4 ohm-cm resistivity IIRC. It was some top notch brand though (~30$ for a tiny amount).
But I suppose lower end brands will stand to the task just as fine. I doubt anyone will be able to perceive difference in audio unless it's some professional reference headphones. 

[SeanB]

Litz wire variant, it is not woven but just stranded. You can solder it using a hot iron, and it will work. Other types like used in telephone cordsets are a tinsel wire made from either copper or aluminium fol on a polyester fibre core, and these only are usable with a crimped connection. While I do repair these at times the cost of the 2 connectors actually is more than the cost of the entire cable ( and as we have a FMC contract on the phones at work I just call and log the fault and ask for x number anyway for free) and thus is only done for those with special functions and pinouts.

[peter.mitchell]

As others have said, very hot iron, blob of solder and gently work back and forth in the one place and it should begin to wet. I do this fairly often as I use earphones at work, which often break and need repairing, they're high isolation prescription earphones so are quite expensive

[woodchips]

A similar problem is for attaching thin enamel insulated transformer winding wire to the lead out wire is how to remove the enamel. Wrap the two wires tightly together and then strike an ordinary safety match and whilst it is flaring put the join into the flame. The two wires end up being welded together. Won't work if one is aluminium though.

[Psi]

Can you just join the two bits with a knot

[M. András]

i had to repair some time ago a headset wiring, the damn wire need the max temp from the iron and a decent amount of solder over it to wet. then it was easly soldered