I have wired the circuit properly, it just won't ignite on the other end!!

[MarkF]

I think I am starting to understand this diagram a little better Mark, thank you for labeling everything.

I am using speaker wire and I think it is 10 AWG...would that possibly be the problem with not getting enough current to the igniters?

The smaller the gauge number the larger the wire size.

From your latest photo, that does not look like 10AWG wire.  10AWG wire would be twice the size you've shown.
The 10AWG wire would dwarf the small wires used on 9V battery connectors.
For 10AWG wire, the copper conductor in each wire is approx. 1/10 inch diameter.
Compare that wire to the wire on any lamps you have in your house.

Edit.  10AWG speaker wire would be closer to the size of what they use to call 'monster cable'. 
Each wire with its insulation has a diameter close to 1/4".

[Nerull]

Monster cable is a marketing wank audiophile brand, not a gauge of cable.

[MarkF]

Monster cable is a marketing wank audiophile brand, not a gauge of cable.

Yes.  But, I bet most people know what it looks like and how big it is!
I actually do not know what gauge Monster cable is or if it is all the same gauge.

And that is not what the OP is showing in his photos.

[Alex Eisenhut]

Just regular model rockets from estes...just a build I wanted to do since I am not working right now. These are just simple put them together kits. I haven't had any wires "explode". At this point I kind of wish they would explode to ignite the rocket engines!!

Ah, I meant the wire inside the igniter's blob. I remember experimenting with the igniters and a home-brewed SCR+large cap igniter system. At some point the igniter simply exploded apart never igniting properly. There's a sweet spot of current where the filament glows and lights up the blob properly.

[Manul]

Maybe it is just me, but LED current (even small) going through a control relay, as in the last diagram, makes me nervous.

[cuesoccer24]

I think I am starting to understand this diagram a little better Mark, thank you for labeling everything.

I am using speaker wire and I think it is 10 AWG...would that possibly be the problem with not getting enough current to the igniters?

The smaller the gauge number the larger the wire size.

From your latest photo, that does not look like 10AWG wire.  10AWG wire would be twice the size you've shown.
The 10AWG wire would dwarf the small wires used on 9V battery connectors.
For 10AWG wire, the copper conductor in each wire is approx. 1/10 inch diameter.
Compare that wire to the wire on any lamps you have in your house.

Edit.  10AWG speaker wire would be closer to the size of what they use to call 'monster cable'. 
Each wire with its insulation has a diameter close to 1/4".

Absolutely right with that Mark, not 10AWG at all...it is very thin and I believe it is around 18-20 AWG wire.

[MarkF]

Maybe it is just me, but LED current (even small) going through a control relay, as in the last diagram, makes me nervous.

Me too.
The sourced relay would need a fairly large coil current to energize for safe operation.
Maybe someone can come up with a better circuit configuration that would check continuity with switching operation...

[cuesoccer24]

I am all ears...this isn't going the way that I thought it was going to go...I feel like I have the correct wiring and with a resistor it should be safe right?

Would anyone be willing to help me with this if I shipped my controller to them to have it fixed? I know that's a long shot but I could really use some help.

[Manul]

Well, I worked with dangerous stuff myself. Safety is number one thing. Always.

Because of that and also because of the fact, that we are discusing kind of "general" approach (we don't know for sure what relay, diode, resistor, battery etc. someone will use), I suggest to put battery, or any kind of power source on a control side.

Because wire can short, LED can fail, relay can activate from mechanical shock, you name it. So it is best to remove all these posibilities all together by putting battery on a control side. You can even physicaly disconnect ignition wire from control device, setup everything, go away, connect wire, push your buttons. All other details and problems can be discussed and solved. Should not be very hard to make it work.

[Manul]

Why not make it simple, similar to how OP started doing:

[Manul]

Or, if OP wants indication of full circuit readiness (continuity), then this should do. Added reverse diode to protect LED, because most probably there will be significant reverse voltages because of wire inductance. Something like 1N4148 should do.

And if it does not ignite and you have a multimeter, measure how much current is going to igniter and compare with igniter specs. That would be some useful basic troubleshooting.

Or if igniter specs states just voltage, measure voltage on igniter side (carefully, possibly you want to run a separate wire for that to not be close).

[cuesoccer24]

Why not make it simple, similar to how OP started doing:

I am not totally in tune with the symbols Manul...could you explain what each of those blue and black triangles represent?

[Manul]

Why not make it simple, similar to how OP started doing:

I am not totally in tune with the symbols Manul...could you explain what each of those blue and black triangles represent?

Well, on the left it is battery symbol. Switch is kinda obvious symbol (connects/disconnects circuit). Resistor is represented by a symbol which looks like spring. Black triangle with two white arrows pointing away is LED (light emitting diode). Blue triangle without white arrows is a diode (it may be optional, but better be there). Here you go  Thats almost same to what you did in the first place. So read my comment about troubleshooting if your setup still does not work.

In my opinion (and others) you just need a good thick wire and correct type of battery. It may be not the 9V battery which you use. You possibly need something more beefy. Or more sensitive igniter. Thats a process of trial and/or measurement.

If 9V battery is not enough, ideas would be car battery, UPS battery, battery packs from power tools or RC model batteries.

[MarkF]

Your original circuit is okay as is.
The only real problem is that you might want a 12V battery and larger gauge wire.
Check out my earlier link to Lowes 25ft 16/2 lamp cord.

As said elsewhere you can check your circuit by connecting a 12V light bulb instead of the igniter.

A SPDT switch for arming would make the circuit safer.




Edit: 
I have read a few tests on different igniters requiring as high a 20A for a few milliseconds.
This will require a large gauge wire and/or higher battery voltage to meet this requirement.
As @Alex Eisenhut said, you might need to experiment to find the sweet spot of
battery voltage, wire gauge and wire length.
Maybe even connecting igniters (Outside of the rocket) to see what combination works best.

[cuesoccer24]

thank you for the input...i will look into it.

Now that I am looking at my controller set up and wire thickness...they all seem to be pretty small, somewhere in the range of 22-30 awg for all wires except the speaker wire. That could be one source of the problem. I also need to find a bigger battery source.

[MarkF]

thank you for the input...i will look into it.

Now that I am looking at my controller set up and wire thickness...they all seem to be pretty small, somewhere in the range of 22-30 awg for all wires except the speaker wire. That could be one source of the problem. I also need to find a bigger battery source.

A quick Digikey search gave this 12V battery: 
   price $16.00,  size 3.86" L x 1.91" W x 2.01" H

   https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-bsg/LC-R121R3P/2148-LC-R121R3P-CHP/10246377