Update grinder switch

[fixit7]

I am updating my work area.

I want to replace this switch with something more durable.

I feel it is a poor design.

I hooked it up using a wall switch to turn it on and off.

Can someone please help me with something more durable.

[bob91343]

Look at the nameplate of the motor to see the switch rating required.  Once you have that, buy any switch that will fit that has that rating.

You will have to fabricate a plate to mount the switch in place of the old one.  Unless you are lucky enough to find a switch that can mount in the same hole as the old one.

There are no special requirements.  A toggle switch would work well; my grinder has a slide switch.  Amazingly, that has never failed in all the years I've owned it, and it's a really cheap switch.  I dislike slide switches; often they get difficult to operate and are prone to an insecure connection.  But the manufacturers love them due to their almost no cost.

[fixit7]

4 amps

I found this.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-110-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B00004WLK6/ref=sr_1_36?keywords=10+amp+ac+switch&qid=1561947300&s=gateway&sr=8-36

[bob91343]

That should do it!

[Ysjoelfir]

I have to admit that I would trust that ancient clunky push/pull switch far more than a small toggle switch. Also it serves a dual purpose as an emergency stop by just having to hit it to stop the machine.

[DTJ]

A simple light switch?


https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-single-architrave-switch_p4430440

[rstofer]

It should be no surprise that switches intended to control motors will have a HP rating in addition to a voltage/amperage rating.  Cheap light switches don't usually have a HP rating but the more expensive switches do have such a rating.

I can't read the markings on that toggle switch...  It looks like it might be rated for 3/4 HP but I'm not certain of that.

Remember the high inrush current when starting the motor is at least 6 times nameplate.  Grinders usually have a lot of mass so they are slow to accelerate.  As a result, the starting current diminishes over a relatively long time.

[DTJ]

It should be no surprise that switches intended to control motors will have a HP rating in addition to a voltage/amperage rating.  Cheap light switches don't usually have a HP rating but the more expensive switches do have such a rating.

I can't read the markings on that toggle switch...  It looks like it might be rated for 3/4 HP but I'm not certain of that.

Remember the high inrush current when starting the motor is at least 6 times nameplate.  Grinders usually have a lot of mass so they are slow to accelerate.  As a result, the starting current diminishes over a relatively long time.

That's all true - I thought the grinder looked like a light duty one.

I'd probably use a  cheap light switch  (and have done in the past on a drill press) but you are correct, it's probably not best practice.