I spent some time tracing paths on the tester PCB to confirm which light corresponds to which pin on the HDMI cable. Assuming I'm correct in thinking this pin out from Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI labelled "HDMI type A receptacle" is what I colloquially call a "female" connector (pictured below) then the pin out becomes:
Tester 10 --> Pin 1 TMDS Data2+
Tester 09 --> Pin 2 TMDS Data2 ShieldTester 11 --> Pin 3 TMDS Data2−
Tester 01 --> Pin 4 TMDS Data1+
Tester 12 --> Pin 5 TMDS Data1 ShieldTester 02 --> Pin 6 TMDS Data1−
Tester 13 --> Pin 7 TMDS Data0+
Tester 03 --> Pin 8 TMDS Data0 ShieldTester 14 --> Pin 9 TMDS Data0−
Tester 04 --> Pin 10 TMDS Clock+
Tester 15 --> Pin 11 TMDS Clock ShieldTester 05 --> Pin 12 TMDS Clock−
Tester 16 --> Pin 13 Consumer Electronics Control (CEC)
Tester 06 --> Pin 14 Reserved (HDMI 1.0–1.3a) Utility/HEAC+ (HDMI 1.4+, optional, HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC) and Audio Return Channel (ARC))
Tester 17 --> Pin 15 SCL (I2C serial clock for DDC)
Tester 07 --> Pin 16 SDA (I2C serial data for DDC)
Tester 18 --> Pin 17 Ground (for DDC, CEC, ARC, and HEC)
Tester 08 --> Pin 18 +5 V (up to 50 mA)
Tester 19 --> Pin 19 Hot Plug Detect (all versions) HEAC− (HDMI 1.4+, optional, HDMI Ethernet Channel and Audio Return Channel)
TesterGND --> Outershield
It looks like the numbers on the tester don't correspond to pin numbers but rather what was convenient for the PCB designer.
A pattern now emerges of just the Shields being disconnected (3,9,12,15 --> 2,5,8,11). (16 CEC was missing on another cable)
I don't understand/remember enough about twisted pair signal transmission to know what implication not having the shields for each pair. However, I can imagine the cable working over short distances and low speeds. Maybe?
A look at HDMI's website
https://www.hdmi.org/resource/cables suggests to me that what I may be looking at is an old cable that corresponds to the old "Standard HMDI Cable" standard. Something like HDMI 1.0 which required only `3.96 Gbit/s of video bandwidth (1920 × 1080 or 1920 × 1200 at 60 Hz) and 8-channel LPCM/192 kHz/24-bit audio`
Alternatively, after shifting through reems of marketing BS™ websites I found this YouTuber who has tested a few cables recently
, and one of the suppositions they had was that "bundled cables", those that come with devices etc, can only have the pins/performance that match the features of the device they are bundled with, as there is no requirement for them to work with anything else.
(Incidentally, if anyone can explain to me what the x and y axes are in the "eye diagrams" produced by their tester in the video (example attached below) I would be grateful!)
So possibly whatever device these cables came from they didn't need the shield pins connected?
Some time ago, I bought this HDMI to DVI cable from aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005644920167.html
It shows the picture and can read EDID, but for some unknown reason the display starts to show "Check signal cable" error when computer is going into sleep mode.
I tried different displays and tried different HDMI sources (several PC, tablet, etc), this issue is present with any display and any HDMI source.
When I use different HDMI to DVI cable it works as expected and when PC is going into sleep mode the display also going to sleep with no error message.
So, I'm interesting what is wrong with this broken cable from aliexpress? Is it missing some required wire?
@radiolisterner I think it's entirely possible your cable is missing some connected pins. Maybe pin 13 - CEC if this is the one responsible for telling the monitor to sleep. But bear in mind I know nothing.
If it's all the same pins on multiple cables it could be that tester has crappy connector. As of half of HDMI differential pair missing, sometimes it may work, although unstable.
@wraper I think the tester's connectors are ok. I've confirmed that multiple "good" cables, multiple times, light up all the tester's LEDs. I've also confirmed that a "bad" cable doesn't have pins 2,5,8, and 11 connected. I did this using my BM789 DMM and inserting stripped 30AWG wire into each of the cable's pins in turn. My DMM returns the same results as the tester. (at least after I mapped which tester light corresponds to which HDMI pin as shown above).