Does oil helps tools in keeping it in good condition?

[justwilliams]

Curious how most people take care of their tools, cutters, pliers, scissors, etc.

Do most of you buy WD-40 and apply to everything once every while? Or do you use special oils and products depending on what you're using it on?

Thanks in advance.

[maginnovision]

I use wd40(or an orange cleaner) occasionally to clean my tools(typically grips), but the actual metal parts I just wipe them clean after using them. Even my 20 year old tools still look new.

[Chriss]

I wipe my tools after I used them. For metal tools or metal parts of a tool sime time I wipe them with gun oil, maybe once a year on the fly when the tool is inmy hand.
Weapon oil is good for remove and protecting from corosion.
Plastic parts I just clean with alcohol for desinfection.
This is how I take care of my tools.

Sent from my GT-I8260 using Tapatalk

[Mechatrommer]

300% trusted since the great great great grand mother...
https://singerco.com.au/product/singer-oil-100ml/

[Cnoob]

WD-40 now and again on the metal parts.

[Stray Electron]

  WD-40 is a good cleaner but a poor preservative and isn't in the same class as a good oil.  I like gun oil since it's made to protect metal for a long term and to protest it even when exposed to sweet (salt) and to rain and weather.  Sewing machine oil is good too but really isn't made to used with outdoor exposure.  One of my over all favorite oils is Marvel Mystery Oil. It's a good cleaner, a good lubricant, a good preservative and it smells good.

[David Hess]

WD-40 works well as the first step in restoring tools, especially if they have gotten wet (WD = water displacement), but is a poor lubricant and poor preservative.

I wipe tool surfaces down with LPS-2 or LPS-Magnum (same thing but with PTFE) which leaves a film behind.  I use the same for lubricating and wiping down firearms.  LPS-3 might be more suitable for long term storage.

[JustMeHere]

Some of this depends on the environment.   Oil "attracts" sand.  So if you leave on the beach, be conservative with wet lubricants.  Graphite power is great for locks on the beach.  If you live further inland, then WD40 isn't a bad choice for locks.

Yes oil doesn't actually attract sand, but wind-blown sand will stick to oily surfaces.

[Stray Electron]

  LPS-3 is GREAT for preserving tools and metal surfaces but it leaves a heavy wax finish that might have to be removed before you can use the tool.  When I bought my truck ten years ago I undercoated all of it and inside of the frame and inside of the door jams with LPS-3 and today there's not a spec of rust on it. 

   For electronics use, auto painting and wood working tools I want my tools to be oil free so I use oil to clean them but then I wipe them clean and store them in a DRY protected climate to prevent rust. General automotive tools get a heavy coat of oil and stored that way.  Justme is correct about oily parts and tools picking up sand and dirt. That's big problem here in Florida on things like motorcycle chains due to amount of blowing sand.  I use powdered graphite when I can but it's not a good enough lubricant for heavy loads.

   One thing that works WELL for things like drill press tables is to clean them thoroughly and then coat them with a coat of furniture type paste wax (without abrasives!).  The dry way protects better than oil and and sand, saw dust and the like don't stick to it. 

   The bottom line is that you have to consider what the tools are going to be used for and if they're used in doors only or indoors and out of doors. For the most part, I now have separate tools sets for each type of work. But I know that that's a luxury for somebody that's just starting out.

[Benta]

WD-40 will clean your tools, but make them rust. DO NOT USE WD-40 AS A PRESERVANT!
Gun oil or Ballistol (my personal favorite) will keep your tools clean and rust free.

[Dubbie]

Yep, I use Rem Oil on my tools to stop them rusting.
it only takes a light spray and a little wipe with a rag.
Years ago I when I didn't know any better, I used WD-40 and they all went rusty 

[KL27x]

I would be lying if I said I oil any tool every time I use it with the exception of a sharpening stone.

I buy a gallon jug of mineral oil and use that to refill my small name brand bottles of premium, certified snake oil.

When I bought my truck ten years ago I undercoated all of it and inside of the frame and inside of the door jams with LPS-3 and today there's not a spec of rust on it. 

Brings back memories. I remember when the "under coat" was a standard dealer $150.00 upsell/tack-on when buying a car. They listed it in the fees and included it defacto, more than making it an upsell, though. "Oh, that? You need that; everyone gets that." I wonder if it's so important why the manufacturer doesn't do it at the factory. 

[jmelson]

  LPS-3 is GREAT for preserving tools and metal surfaces but it leaves a heavy wax finish that might have to be removed before you can use the tool.  When I bought my truck ten years ago I undercoated all of it and inside of the frame and inside of the door jams with LPS-3 and today there's not a spec of rust on it. 

But, LPS-1 is much less messy.  For general rust prevention, or when tools get wet, like working on plumbing, then a spritz of LPS-1 prevents rusting.

Jon

[David Hess]

Some of this depends on the environment.   Oil "attracts" sand.  So if you leave on the beach, be conservative with wet lubricants.  Graphite power is great for locks on the beach.  If you live further inland, then WD40 isn't a bad choice for locks.

Yes oil doesn't actually attract sand, but wind-blown sand will stick to oily surfaces.

I just rebuilt several of my door locks and cleaned them using LPS-1 which as far as I can tell, is a superior alternative to WD-40 but maybe it does not displace water as well.  I used an air compressor to blow any extra LPS-1 out of the locks.  Now they feel better than new.

But, LPS-1 is much less messy.  For general rust prevention, or when tools get wet, like working on plumbing, then a spritz of LPS-1 prevents rusting.

LPS-1 is "greaseless" so it should not leave a film behind but tools and especially firearms usually have a surface treatment (bluing, parkerization, whatever) which absorbs oil for protection.

Incidentally, LPS-1 and LPS-2 have distinctive odors which I assume is deliberate so they can be identified; LPS-1 smells like mint while LPS-2 smells like cherries.  The oil recommended for musical instruments also smells like mint and is greaseless so I suspect it is the same as LPS-1.