Tin a soldering iron copper tip (Antex 0.12mm)

[sdancer75]

I bought a copper tip no 57 (0.12mm) from my Antex XS25

https://www.antex.co.uk/products/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs-mlxs/b005770/

No matter what, I can not tin this tip. The solder is becoming like small balls and it does not stay on the tip.

Is this normal for unplated copper tips? The tip is brand new. What seems to be the problem here?

From the photo attached does, it seems oxidized?

[tautech]

I bought a copper tip no 57 (0.12mm) from my Antex XS25

https://www.antex.co.uk/products/replacement-bits/50-bits-for-xs-mlxs/b005770/

No matter what, I can not tin this tip. The solder is becoming like small balls and it does not stay on the tip.

Is this normal for unplated copper tips? The tip is brand new. What seems to be the problem here?

From the photo attached does, it seems oxidized?

Yes, or more likely blued like a rifle barrel.
Pop it in a drill and shine the very last mm or so of the tip with some very fine emery or steel wool.

That might be wrong but that's what I'd do if solder won't take to it. Still you might have to experiment with different fluxes/solders to get it to tin to your liking.

[Ian.M]

After cleaning the tip of the tip to bright copper as Tautech advised, *DONT* put it in the iron, as by the time it heats up enough to melt solder with its very small cross section it will have oxidised again^*.  Wrap its shank with a strip of paper for thermal insulation,  and pop it in a metal jawed clamp (or a pair of pliers with a rubber band round the handles) to stop it rolling away from you on your bench, then tin it with solder and flux as-if it was a component pin using a heavy duty tip in your iron.

* The only way tinning it in the iron can work is if you use solder paste applied cold and wrap the tip tightly in aluminum foil to hold the paste against it and exclude air as it heats up.

[macboy]

After cleaning the tip of the tip to bright copper as Tautech advised, *DONT* put it in the iron, as by the time it heats up enough to melt solder with its very small cross section it will have oxidised again^*.  Wrap its shank with a strip of paper for thermal insulation,  and pop it in a metal jawed clamp (or a pair of pliers with a rubber band round the handles) to stop it rolling away from you on your bench, then tin it with solder and flux as-if it was a component pin using a heavy duty tip in your iron.

* The only way tinning it in the iron can work is if you use solder paste applied cold and wrap the tip tightly in aluminum foil to hold the paste against it and exclude air as it heats up.

I agree that a new tip must be tinned at the instant it reaches melting temperature. If you wait too long (even a few seconds too long) it oxidizes and becomes nearly impossible to tin.

However, I have always had success with just installing the tip, turning on the iron, and continuously trying to melt some good solder wire (Kester 44 60/40, nice RA flux) to the heating tip. When it reaches melting temperature, the solder will flow onto the tip. This works even better if you can add some flux to the tip beforehand.

[sdancer75]

thank you all.

I followed your instructions and I tinned my tip with the following method.