Designed my first PCB

[paulca]

Get yourself some "glass" for SMD work.  You'll never look back (slight pun intended).

Something like these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnifying-Glass-Lens-LED-Light-Lamp-Visor-Head-Loupe-Jeweler-Magnifier/392005109712?hash=item5b455347d0:g:ejIAAOSwtxlas1NI

Or if you have a few more green backs to unload these are phenomenal to use.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Andonstar-ADSM201-HDMI-1080-Digital-Microscope-Electronics-Inspection-PCB-Repair/252637371625?epid=13016475438&hash=item3ad25c5ce9:g:OL0AAOSwoFVaVbc8

When you plug the later into a 24" computer monitor an 0805 resistor is about 2" across when the scope is retracted to it's highest position for soldering underneath.

My eye sight is so rubbish I use a manicure illuminated magnifier lens to do through hole soldering and read chip ID numbers!  Yet I managed to solder this together this week:


Anyway, I'm watching this thread with interest as I have an RN52 Bluetooth SMD card arriving in the post to play with and will be designing a PCB for it once it get tested on a breadboard using a bit of strip board to break it out.

[mdijkens]

Thanks for all tips and suggestions

This is what it looks like now.
All components on top side
Buttons better alligned
Ground plane on top and bottom
antenna outside the PCB

[JoeO]

I think you might need some mounting holes for the board.

[paulca]

Bonus points if you round the corners  

[mdijkens]

Thanks for the advise but no I don't need mounting holes.
I mount them with pinheaders on the project PCB's.

Round corners is very nice but makes ordering more expensive
Besides, I'm using the space is most of the corners also

[paulca]

Round corners is very nice but makes ordering more expensive

It does?  Or do you mean your PCB fab will add rounded corners for you, but at cost?

I added rounded corners to my PCB "Edge Cuts" layer using arcs on the corners and had them done by AllPCB with no extra cost.

[1ABengineer]

I wood put a little bit more distance between The headers and the side Of The boart, sometimes board manufacturers make small Changes en pin 15 of U1 could get Disconnected from gnd. This Happened To Me Once. And I Wouldn't Put the value of the resistor Between The pads . I personally like to see the refdes(U1,R4 ect.) Outside the Part And No values on the board. Voor de rest is Looks great.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk

[mdijkens]

Unfortunately red the last post too late; already send to manufacterer.

Now I wonder if there's enough track-width from the GN pin to the ground (1st) pin of the ESP ?
There's 20mil clearance between the two resistor pads
Normal current consumption is around 80-100 mA but the ESP has a habit of short (1ms) spikes of 300mA every second or so, although I hope these are mainly covered by the 220uF cap which has great connectivity to + and -

[paulca]

Unfortunately red the last post too late; already send to manufacterer.

Relax

Sit back, forget about it.  Wait for the board to arrive.  Part of this journey is about learning from mistakes.

I have so far made 4 PCBs and another in the post.  The 2nd threw a curve ball reversed polarity on one of the footprints.  Correctable.  The 4th only suffered from Left and right being the wrong way round on the stereo channels of an output jack.

EDIT: the first and second came out of the box and worked perfectly.  Very satisfying. 

On the reversed polarity, it is critical you treat the board very carefully straight out of the womb.  Do not apply an unlimited current supply to it the first time it receives power.  Not unless you like blue smoke.

Put it on a bench power supply and ease it up from low current.  Start at the minimum current you expect it to draw.  On the ESP8266 100mA is more than enough.  Power it on, wait, don't panic, let it settle first.  If it current limits at a low voltage and nothing happens you might have a problem.  Check for hot components, but if you use your fingers, be careful.  I have had a blister from finding out the polarity was backwards on an ATTiny85.  "Is that hot... *&#!  YES!  That's hot!"

If it current limits slightly, give it more power.  If it stabilises out of current limit, then thats what it's consuming.  If it's high, check for hot components. 

If you have any problems..  "Though shalt check voltages." and proceed from there.  By being careful and slow with the current and you can power up and test a board with a dead short on it without blowing anything up.

You seem to have spent quite a lot of time and diligence on this, so I expect you will be absolutely fine!  Good luck.