Author Topic: DC dummy load circuit calibration  (Read 17968 times)

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #75 on: May 30, 2018, 09:39:50 am »
You might be interested in this kit:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-Kits-150W-10A-battery-capacity-tester-adjustable-constant-current-electronic-load-discharge-Test/32870007246.html

The schematic looks very similar to what you are doing (see attachment).

Another forum member turned this kit into a completed project. You may be interested in what he and other forum members had to say about it:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/upgraded-lm324-based-150w-72v-10a-electronic-load/msg1506610/

Note, also, that the PCB has footprints for both TO-220 and TO-247 MOSFETS - this makes it easy to experiment with different load transistors.

Seems like a nice project.

However, I don't know how much voltage does the 10-turn POT outputs to LM324 in that project. Our project here has a disadvantage of having low current passing through the POT to negative rail which could result in induced voltage from the environment that affect reading.

I couldn't figure out the voltage there, they seem to have TL431 reference (set to 2.5v?) then 22K + 10K pot? If you know please clarify.

 

Offline ledtester

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #76 on: May 30, 2018, 05:51:18 pm »
It's advertised as a 10A electronic load spread out over the four transistors - so 2.5A per transistor.

However, you can adjust the resistor values and pot to achieve a different range. In fact, you may need to do this as demonstrated in this video:



Also check out his other videos on this project - they are very informative.
 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #77 on: May 30, 2018, 10:19:01 pm »
I've got a new idea to try to eliminate the shielding if possible, which makes the project immune to RF stuff. It is in the picture below in attachments.

Basically, instead of making the 10-turn pot has the 12uA current to set the output (which makes it weak vs RF as Ian said), now it has around 0.2mA of current (or even 2.5mA) which is x100 times better!!

The only problem is the divider, how to get the 52R resistor. Maybe we could get away with 47R and then adjust the zeroing pot to make for it... I guess it will work.

Waiting your opinion... I hope this really solves that issue or at least makes it weaker.

The only downside is that we have to get TL431 to be 2.5v ref (can it be 2v?) and one LM358 op-amp since we need 2 op-amps and this IC has them. These items are very cheap and affordable. Maybe TL431 is not as famous as LM358 but still dirt cheap from China.


Offline ledtester

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #78 on: May 31, 2018, 05:43:09 am »
By using a 2.5K resistor you can have the 10K pot tune a voltage between 0 and 2 volts using the TL431 as a 2.5 V reference.

I think it's time to actually build sometime and test it to see where the problems are. Then you will have a better idea of where you should spend your time improving on the design.
 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #79 on: May 31, 2018, 06:11:08 am »
By using a 2.5K resistor you can have the 10K pot tune a voltage between 0 and 2 volts using the TL431 as a 2.5 V reference.

I think it's time to actually build sometime and test it to see where the problems are. Then you will have a better idea of where you should spend your time improving on the design.

You are correct, I can use 1k + 1k to have 2k resistor -> 2.08A maximum which is a nice margin.

My point from the last reply is to propose a solution to RF noise issue. I hope Ian gets some time to give his opinion since I am confident it solved the problem or at least made it less effective.

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #80 on: June 01, 2018, 09:58:14 pm »
As for heatsinks, I still didn't get them from my friend but they will arrive soon.

I wonder if something like this works:

https://alutronic.com/products/heat-sink-pcb-mounting/for-multiple-mounting/69/pr134/75/se/m3?c=1356


or one of these for each mosfet: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-38x34x12-8mm-TO220-TO-220-heatsink-heat-sink-radiator-for-IC-triode-7805/32622932747.html

without fan cooling? with fan cooling?

Let's say one day this project got better and I want to try and make small quantity to sell, then I would need standard heatsinks that I could buy (not cut them).

Remember that this is the case: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Extruded-Aluminum-Enclosures-PCB-Instrument-Electronic-Project-Box-Case-100x76x35mm/32813597400.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d0tvfpY

it is very compact let me tell you but I do like it. That heatsink fits perfectly at the back of this case. If so, then fan cooling might be a good future addition especially if we could move the heatsink inside (get a slightly bigger case).

In the mean time, dreams aside... I am getting ready to do the PCB in next week.

Offline ledtester

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #81 on: June 02, 2018, 04:13:31 am »
You'll want to use a fan. It will greatly enhance the dissipative ability of the heat sink which means you can use a smaller heat sink.

Have a look at how some commercial loads are built:

-
-
- https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a312a.7700824.w4004-1173757744.2.51092a79IJ04Xg&id=567150768124

That arrangement of heat sink and fan seems to work well.
 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #82 on: June 02, 2018, 06:24:16 pm »
How about putting 4 heatsinks (to-220 one version) so one per mosfet? putting them near each other (mosfets facing each other) then put a fan at back panel to suck all air out. I guess this is the best I can do for now or the other solution is to put one big heatsink outside which would be ugly.

The 4 heatsinks would be inside the case while the fan could be inside or outside. I could make holes in back panel so that air could escape and thus we get a completely enclosed project. I still don't have what it takes to decide since I didn't test anything.

According to this project, we would have 15 watts per mosfet which means the heatsink must dissipate 15 watts. I guess these ones linked above can do the job without a fan so with a fan it should be much better.

The bummer is that these Chinese ones do not have the temperature coefficient or even a datasheet of some sort!

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #83 on: June 02, 2018, 07:08:27 pm »
I found these ones which can fit inside the case: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-3010s-30MM-30-x-30-x-10MM-12V-2Pin-DC-Cooler-Small-Cooling/32603431500.html

Putting 2 of this one should be nice right? they come in 12 and 5v version so I don't know maybe 12v is better. The 0.13A consumption is too much though.

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #84 on: June 02, 2018, 07:26:58 pm »
The best one I found is this: https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/FA-T220-64E?qs=sGAEpiMZZMttgyDkZ5WiumlCfl50RTwzVA%252bY4U4BtvA%3d

it is 3 degrees per watt which means 3x15 = 45 degrees only. Say ambient is 30 -> 30+45 = 75 degrees without a fan! However they are pricey and I won't find them on Aliexpress so shipping to Jordan gonna be too much.

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #85 on: June 03, 2018, 01:02:07 am »
Here is latest simulation after adding 2k resistors to TL431 reference + my new circuitry mentioned above (LM358).

I claim that this one solves the RF problem or at least make it less since now instead of 12uA current through our 10-turn POT (which is mounted on front panel), we have around 0.2mA which is more or less same as other designs including Dave's (5v on 10K but I have 2.5v on 10K).

I made 52R to standard 47R then re-adjusted zeroing POT to make it exactly 1V per 1A.

Looking for Ian's final opinion on this.

Offline Ian.M

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #86 on: June 04, 2018, 06:30:58 am »
I'll try and take a proper look at it later today.
First impressions:
OPAMP U2 isn't needed - take the 1K:47R divider output straight to in+ of the current sink feedback OPAMPs

Since you've now got a spare OPAMP, it would be best used in an inverting configuration to generate a precise and stable -0.5V rail for the zero adjust.   Use 2x 10K in parallel from the 2.5V reference and 1K for feedback.

Edit: I've now had a chance to look at it:
I've reworked it, to improve the simulation, and have also used the second OPAMP in the LM358 to generate the zero adjust voltage.  Hopefully I've included all the required symbols and models with the sim.

I know you aren't particularly fond of my potentiometerVC symbol, however it really is the easiest way of #1 showing the part is a potentiometer or preset, not two fixed resistors, and #2 being able to sweep or step the wiper position, either for a .dc sim or with respect to time in a .tran sim.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 12:01:04 pm by Ian.M »
 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #87 on: June 04, 2018, 11:28:02 am »
Here is your modification, I did it quickly though. I tried it on 1.000A and it can be achieved but other values don't work with the same calibration.


Offline Ian.M

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #88 on: June 04, 2018, 12:11:33 pm »
I've done a lot of tweaking of the sim this morning to get the full output range, good zeroing, and also to save supply current e.g. the LED + resistor now feeds the TL431 shunt regulator, as that needs about 10mA to regulate well.

See attachments to reply #86.   You may have to change some resistor values to get a suitable range for the zero adjust - see notes on schematic.


By adding one SPDT switch, an input socket, and a 1K resistor and a pair of diodes for input protection,  you can control the load from a function generator, or a low pass filtered Arduino PWM which opens up possibilities like automated discharge tests for batteries with datalogging or using it as a constant power or constant resistance load if you monitor the load voltage on an ADC channel.

 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #89 on: June 04, 2018, 06:44:56 pm »
I've done a lot of tweaking of the sim this morning to get the full output range, good zeroing, and also to save supply current e.g. the LED + resistor now feeds the TL431 shunt regulator, as that needs about 10mA to regulate well.

See attachments to reply #86.   You may have to change some resistor values to get a suitable range for the zero adjust - see notes on schematic.


By adding one SPDT switch, an input socket, and a 1K resistor and a pair of diodes for input protection,  you can control the load from a function generator, or a low pass filtered Arduino PWM which opens up possibilities like automated discharge tests for batteries with datalogging or using it as a constant power or constant resistance load if you monitor the load voltage on an ADC channel.

Good job re-arranging it, it is better now.

#############
# your POT model #
#############

I don't hate it but I don't understand it. Now it is obvious to me that it relies on voltage to change resistance. I wish to understand how it is made.

###########
# Zeroing POTs #
###########

I don't quite understand R1 and R3, their values are standard but how they are mixed with RV2 and RV3?

What I understand is that RV2 sets the negative offset via op-amp U6 which acts as an inverting op-amp. So it takes the gain set by R1 and R3 and inverts the signal coming from RV2 according to it... is this correct?

But here RV2 still what truly changes the result so R1 and R3 are a fixed maximum limit to the offset?

Also, RV3 is a bit vague to me, you say it is for making 1V per 1A. I see a divider formed by R10, R11, and RV3 while RV3 is outside op-amp U6 loop. You seem to put it as 100 ohms potentiometer so it is not the same as 10K pots used elsewhere which means I have to get 100R ones just for this.

This is the one: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Precision-Potentiometer_BOURNS_3296W-1-101LF_100R_C83688.html

############
# TL431 + diode #
############

Will 10mA be enough for this to work? I mean for the LED it is but for 2.5v shunt regulator output? especially that I would use 2 of 1K in parallel to get 500R instead of 470R since the later one is not used but here.

I didn't quite understand D_TL437 thing as it seems to be yet another one of your special models. First, I thought you would put a zener diode as a model for TL431 since it doesn't have an official model. It won't matter much here since it is just a voltage source.

###############
# Function generator #
###############

I guess I will put an opening for it in the back or somewhere not visible since I won't be using it.

If someone put more than 2v it would be bad. As for protection diodes, I thought of putting 1N4001/7 since they are available to me and others. As I understand its operation, if input voltage from function generator (or pot for some reason) exceeds 2.5v by 0.7v then diode will conduct. At the same time, it acts as a reverse protection.

But this won't prevent someone from putting 3v or so as an input, then I wonder how the circuit will react.




##########

I will try to update the schematic in KiCAD probably tomorrow with this new update. I guess now we won't worry about RF issue anymore which is a big plus.




Offline Ian.M

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #90 on: June 04, 2018, 08:51:48 pm »
First lets consider potentiometerVC.sub, which contains the voltage controlled potentiometer model:
Code: [Select]
* This is the potentiometerVC
*      _____
*  1--|_____|--2
*        |
*        3
*
*  4 - control voltage
*
.SUBCKT potentiometerVC 1 2 3 4
.func w()=limit(V(4),1m,.999)
R0 1 3 R={Rtot}*(1-w())
R1 3 2 R={Rtot}*w()
R2 4 0 10G
.ENDS
Although its set up as voltage controlled, treat the control as a percentage wiper position: 0% -> 100% is represented by 0V -> 1V. 

All lines starting with * are SPICE comments.  The .subckt line defines a component with four pins as a netlist between it and the .ends line.  The pins are numbered nodes as shown in the comment. 0 is the universal ground node which isn't explicitly connected to the potentiometerVC symbol.

The .func w() line sets limits for the wiper position. Even if you supply an out of range control to the pot (as voltage on pin 4: V(4)), the wiper stays within the track.   As SPICE errors if a resistance is zero ohms, and a real pot has some track end resistance so it can never quite reach 0% or 100%, the function limits the wiper range to 0.1% to 99.9%.   On a 10K pot that would leave 10 ohms  between the wiper and the end pin at the wiper limits.

The lines starting R are resistors. R1 3 2 R={Rtot}*w() defines a resistor of value: parameter Rtot times the wiper position, connected between pins 3 and 2.   Similarly R0 defines another resistor that decreases as R1 increases, between pins 1 and 3 so that the total resistance of the track between 2 and 3 remains constant at Rtot.  Finally, R2 is a fixed 10 gigaohm resistor - virtually an insulator, which is needed to stop LTspice discarding pin 4 as an unconnected node.

Zeroing circuit:
R1 sets the maximum zeroing voltage, currently about +3mV.  If in+ of U6 was grounded instead, the maximum zeroing voltage would be zero and the minimum would be set by the max input voltage from the preset RV2 times R3/100K, currently about 10mV, so the range is from +3mV to -7mV.  R3 will need to be changed if the zeroing preset doesn't have enough range or is too sensitive.   e.g increasing it to 820R would increase the zeroing range to about 20mV, which if R1 is unchanged would give you an adjustment range from approx +3mV to -17mV.   Its actually a little more complicated than that,  as the voltage on in+ doesn't actually directly add to the zeroing output, but as long as its small and R3 is much much less than 100K, the error due to over-simplifying the OPAMP maths is likely to be less than its offset voltage error.

TL431:
Sorry about the ****-up on the part number 'TL437' is bogus, it should be TL431.
The recommended operating conditions for a TL431 are to have between 1mA and 100mA passing through it.  As you can see, the sim shows 9.5mA.    The 2.5V reference rail is loaded by 100K||10K||12K,  which is about 5K, or 0.5mA.   Increasing the LED resistor to 500R wont be a problem.

The 'ideal' diode in the sim for the TL431 is to prevent the 2.5V voltage source  providing any current to the 2.5V rail. (Not quite ideal as SPCE doesn't like zero or infinite resistances.)   I can't really use a Zener there as the characteristic is very different to a TL431, which has a much sharper knee and nearly zero slope above the minimum current.

RV3:

RV3 + R11 form the lower arm of the divider (with R10) that scale the 0-2V from U5 down to what the current sinks need.   You could easily rearrange this section to use a 10K preset.  See attached image.  If you need a fast step response however, you'll probably need to decrease C1 as well to keep the RC time constant low enough.

Function generator:
The input is protected against overvoltage by the 1K series resistor R4 and the 1N4148 diodes.  Assuming a 1/4W resistor,  it can withstand about +/-15V without immediate damage though, as the control voltage will only be clamped at 2.5+0.7=3.2V, the MOSFETs may overheat as it will try to pass 3.2A.  Improving the protection to eliminate the possible over-current would make the circuit a *LOT* more complex.   

I wouldn't recommend substituting 1N400x power diodes as their larger junction capacitance will limit the transient response and their possibly higher leakage current could be a problem.   Any small low leakage silicon diodes rated for 50mA to 100mA could be substituted.

For the function generator or Arduino connection, you should use at least a four pin connector so you can bring out the source connection from ONE of the MOSFETS and also the drain - that would allow an Arduino to measure the actual voltage and current.  The other two pins are current control voltage in and Gnd.    It would be possible to use a 0.1" pitch rightangle header, preferably a seven pin one with pin 3 cropped (to avoid mistakes with the jumper or reversing the connector), and put a jumper on it on pins 1 and 2 to couple the pot knob to the buffer OPAMP rather than fitting a SPDT switch.  The Arduino would also be able to read the control voltage from the front panel pot.   The 7th pin is to provide the +2.5V reference to the Arduino.
 
 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #91 on: June 06, 2018, 12:15:33 am »
Putting 100K followed by 10K pot will make the current in the 18uA range which reverts back to original problem, although here it is inside the board not on wiper itself. So keeping the 100R pot seems the sane solution especially that it is kinda common part as well as we'll be getting many parts so this one can be added to them. I just wanna know why you didn't use your POT model for this one? is it because it is a variable resistor not a traditional pot? or a "rheostat"? I see people in designs short the top pin with the 3rd pin (wiper) but I don't know how that is gonna work. For me, I use Pin 1 and pin3 while leaving pin 2 unconnected if I wanna use it as variable resistor.

You spoke about R3 and the zeroing range, what do you mean it could be not enough? We need a safe area so that we won't resort to test different values after making the PCBs.

voltage at R1 is about 4.5mV not 3mV. So increasing R3 to 1K will make the range even more, like more than 20mV? How can we know if it is enough or not?

___

Now, after say building it... I guess this is the procedure for calibration:

1- make all POTs at 0. 10-turn one is easy but the others are not due to not knowing the direction.
2- connect a multimeter as ammeter, adjust 10-turn pot to draw 10mA.
3- try to draw 1mA and record 10-turn pot voltage.
4- keep lowering it slowly until the point where its voltage is 0, now use zeroing pot to adjust the zero to be at that point. Test it after finishing and repeat until it is spot on.
5- adjust 10-turn pot to exactly 1.00V -> use RV3 to make it 1.00A.

Then:

6- adjust panel meter accordingly since it should be calibrated... it must show exactly as the others.


what do you think?

Offline Ian.M

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #92 on: June 06, 2018, 01:11:02 am »
Currents in the tens of uA range are much less of a problem when they never leave the PCB (because that pot is a preset) and the layout is carefully arranged to minimise surface leakage and keep high impedance tracks as short as possible.  However I agree that you should have a selection of presets.   I keep a small stock of plain presets 1... 2... and 5... for all decades between 100R and 1Meg + a few multiturn presets between 1K and 100K.

For simulation, its an unnecessary complication to use a potentiometer for a rheostat when a simple resistor will do - either setting its value manually, using a (possibly stepped) parameter, or a behavioural resistor expression like R=10K*limit(V(wiper),1u,1).  However if you are building an actual circuit, and are using a pot or preset as a rheostat, its advisable to link the unused track end to the wiper so it never goes open  circuit due to dirt on the track or the wiper skipping slightly as you turn it.

For calibration, initially set the presets midrange and the  front panel pot at its zero end limit.  Connect a 12V supply to the load terminals, either with a current limit set to 2.5A or with enough series resistance to limit the current to 5A if the load is shorted.  Measure the current and adjust the zeroing preset until you get about 1mA.   Measure the voltage at the wiper of the front panel pot, and increase it till its exactly 1V more than the initial value.   Adjust the range preset for a current of 1A.    Turn the front panel pot back to zero, check the current and readjust the zero preset to get it under 0.5mA without turning it any further from the 1mA position than you have to.   Turn up the front panel pot till there is exactly 2V more on its wiper than at its zero position and carefully adjust the range preset for as close to 2A as you can get.   Lock the range preset with a drop of nail varnish (not a metallic colour or black).   You may well need to tweak the zero preset later so I would suggest *not* locking that one.

The external input should then be calibrated to 1A per volt, though it wont be zeroed. If you want the external input zeroed, the circuit gets more complex and will need separate zero presets for cancelling out each OPAMP offset.   IMHO its *NOT* worth it.

The zeroing range you need depends on the exact make/model of your OPAMPs (for their datasheet worst case input offset voltage) and the front panel pot's max resistance between the wiper and the zero track end with it turned right to its zero limit.   It is calculable but will be a PITA to do so.  If initially you don't fit R2 and R6, and put links instead of  R1 and R3, that will disable the zeroing circuit so you can make measurements to determine how much zeroing range you need (check the voltage at in+ of the OPAMPS driving the MOSFETs) with the front panel pot at zero and also with it switched to ext input and the ext input shorted to circuit ground)  then you can select appropriate resistors and fit them.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2018, 01:21:11 am by Ian.M »
 

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #93 on: June 06, 2018, 07:58:51 am »
Quote
Currents in the tens of uA range are much less of a problem when they never leave the PCB (because that pot is a preset) and the layout is carefully arranged to minimise surface leakage and keep high impedance tracks as short as possible.  However I agree that you should have a selection of presets.   I keep a small stock of plain presets 1... 2... and 5... for all decades between 100R and 1Meg + a few multiturn presets between 1K and 100K.

So safest option is using the 100R pot as the original circuit... which is the final choice.

Quote
However if you are building an actual circuit, and are using a pot or preset as a rheostat, its advisable to link the unused track end to the wiper so it never goes open  circuit due to dirt on the track or the wiper skipping slightly as you turn it.

But then it would take the full range if wiper fails... I will adjust schematic accordingly.

Quote
For calibration, initially set the presets midrange and the  front panel pot at its zero end limit.  Connect a 12V supply to the load terminals, either with a current limit set to 2.5A or with enough series resistance to limit the current to 5A if the load is shorted.  Measure the current and adjust the zeroing preset until you get about 1mA.   Measure the voltage at the wiper of the front panel pot, and increase it till its exactly 1V more than the initial value.   Adjust the range preset for a current of 1A.    Turn the front panel pot back to zero, check the current and readjust the zero preset to get it under 0.5mA without turning it any further from the 1mA position than you have to.   Turn up the front panel pot till there is exactly 2V more on its wiper than at its zero position and carefully adjust the range preset for as close to 2A as you can get.   Lock the range preset with a drop of nail varnish (not a metallic colour or black).   You may well need to tweak the zero preset later so I would suggest *not* locking that one.

By "zeroing" you mean RV2?
By "range preset" you mean RV3?

I will try following up the steps, here it goes:

1- RV1 10-turn POT = 0 position = 0R (or nearly).
2- I connect the 12v supply as a DUT while having another 12v as DC_jack input.
3- Current measured should be in the mA range, now I adjust it to get 1mA at a very low voltage (in mV?).
4- I measure the voltage and it is about let's say 2mV (gives 1mA output).
5- I adjust the wiper to 1.002V (or should it be at exactly 1.000V?).
6- Now I adjust RV3 to get 1.000A (or 1.002A?).
7- I return RV1 to 0 position, then adjust RV2 to get about <0.5mA. (what do you mean by "without turning it any further from the 1mA position than you have to"?)
8- RV1 Wiper is now say 0.4mV voltage... I change it to 2.0004V (or exactly 2.000?).
9- current should be near 2A but I use RV3 to make it 2.0004A (or just 2.000A?)
10- adjust panel meter to see the current and voltage as the multimeters.

is this correct?

I have Aneng 8009 (and 8002) multimeters so I think it would be accurate enough.

Quote
The external input should then be calibrated to 1A per volt, though it wont be zeroed. If you want the external input zeroed, the circuit gets more complex and will need separate zero presets for cancelling out each OPAMP offset.   IMHO its *NOT* worth it.

I won't include the feature of external input.

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The zeroing range you need depends on the exact make/model of your OPAMPs (for their datasheet worst case input offset voltage) and the front panel pot's max resistance between the wiper and the zero track end with it turned right to its zero limit.   It is calculable but will be a PITA to do so.  If initially you don't fit R2 and R6, and put links instead of  R1 and R3, that will disable the zeroing circuit so you can make measurements to determine how much zeroing range you need (check the voltage at in+ of the OPAMPS driving the MOSFETs) with the front panel pot at zero and also with it switched to ext input and the ext input shorted to circuit ground)  then you can select appropriate resistors and fit them.

I think I will keep your values for now. If I fail to reach 0v then I will think of another way.

Offline Ian.M

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #94 on: June 06, 2018, 08:10:30 am »
If you are omitting the external input, you can simplify the range adjustment.  Simply turn the front panel pot to max and adjust for fractionally over 2A.

For the zero adjustment, its important not to turn the preset past the point at which the load current reaches zero as that will crate a 'dead' zone at the bottom end of the front panel pot's wiper travel, hence my recommendation to initially set 1mA with the panel pot at its zero limit, then tweak the preset till its under 0.5ma - near enough to zero current.
 

Offline VEGETATopic starter

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #95 on: September 21, 2018, 12:27:39 pm »
Update: version 0.3

I have made the agreed updates for this project, now we have another opamp and tl431.

Please check it, now problem of rf noise is no more, and this will be more suitable as a whole.

I am in the process of picking an aluminum enclosure and make the pcb.

Offline VEGETATopic starter

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #96 on: November 09, 2018, 01:21:03 am »
this is probably the final version, hopefully.

Offline VEGETATopic starter

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Re: DC dummy load circuit calibration
« Reply #97 on: November 11, 2018, 11:35:08 pm »
Should we adjust it further or proceed in this? I am about to finish routing it.


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