Quality leads/probes on cheap DMM.

[Russ]

Hello

   Sorry about my naivety. For small scale readings (low DC voltages, Resistor readings, etc), is there any reason to use my high quality leads/probes while using my cheaper DMM? The readings will be similar or quite close? I have two sets of the gold plated probes, and the cheaper ones that are supplied with the cheaper multimeters.

Thanks
Russ

[tooki]

Well you can use your good meter to measure the resistance of the cheap leads (shorting them against each other) and bear that in mind for very low resistance measurements. Otherwise, the only reasons for using good leads on a cheap meter are improved continuity tester performance and comfort. (Gold-plated leads on a cheap meter will make even a scratchy unlatched continuity tester perform well.)

[GreyWoolfe]

Well you can use your good meter to measure the resistance of the cheap leads (shorting them against each other) and bear that in mind for very low resistance measurements. Otherwise, the only reasons for using good leads on a cheap meter are improved continuity tester performance and comfort. (Gold-plated leads on a cheap meter will make even a scratchy unlatched continuity tester perform well.)

As is the case with my gold plated Brymen leads and Aneng AN8008 and AN8009 meters.  My use is low R measurements, less than 1R to 30R for  a FRU.

[tooki]

FRU?

[Russ]

Well you can use your good meter to measure the resistance of the cheap leads (shorting them against each other) and bear that in mind for very low resistance measurements. Otherwise, the only reasons for using good leads on a cheap meter are improved continuity tester performance and comfort. (Gold-plated leads on a cheap meter will make even a scratchy unlatched continuity tester perform well.)

As is the case with my gold plated Brymen leads and Aneng AN8008 and AN8009 meters.  My use is low R measurements, less than 1R to 30R for  a FRU.

   I have an Aneng 8009 on its way to me. How do you like yours? 15 second backlights drive me nuts.

Thanks

[GreyWoolfe]

FRU?

Field replaceable unit

   I have an Aneng 8009 on its way to me. How do you like yours? 15 second backlights drive me nuts.

Thanks

The back light means nothing to me, I won't ever use it in a situation where it would.  My 8008 and 8009 will probably never see mains voltage and very rarely see DC voltage.  My use is work related, I have to measure resistance of a thermalcouple and heating elements, the thermalcouple measuring less than 1R  good and 15-20R good, 30R fail on the heating elements.  For my purposes they both perform excellently.  I am also keeping one as a backup in case I leave one behind at the customer site.  The Brymen leads work far better than the OEM leads.  I measured a 1R1 5% resister with both meters, using the OEM leads and the Brymen leads.  With the Brymen leads, both meters agreed with my GW-Instek GDM 8251A at 1R13.  The OEM leads were around 2R4.  The meters do take a few seconds to give a reading but that also isn't a big deal to me.  I have never had nor never will have a need for instant response.  The meter will also not be a daily driver.  There is supposed to be several 1000's  of hours MTBF of the parts so use will be occasional if something strange is happening or there is an outright failure.

I bought 2 of these instead of a Fluke 101.  They suit my particular needs and were quite a bit cheaper than a single 101 of which I would still replace those leads with Brymens.  As long as you understand the shortcomings of a $20 meter, I believe they will work well and I think you will enjoy.  I have better hand held meters including a Fluke 27/FM.  I needed something small and light weight to fit in my toolbag and be fairly accurate for my needs.  The Anengs fit the bill.

[Russ]

FRU?

Field replaceable unit

   I have an Aneng 8009 on its way to me. How do you like yours? 15 second backlights drive me nuts.

Thanks

The back light means nothing to me, I won't ever use it in a situation where it would.  My 8008 and 8009 will probably never see mains voltage and very rarely see DC voltage.  My use is work related, I have to measure resistance of a thermalcouple and heating elements, the thermalcouple measuring less than 1R  good and 15-20R good, 30R fail on the heating elements.  For my purposes they both perform excellently.  I am also keeping one as a backup in case I leave one behind at the customer site.  The Brymen leads work far better than the OEM leads.  I measured a 1R1 5% resister with both meters, using the OEM leads and the Brymen leads.  With the Brymen leads, both meters agreed with my GW-Instek GDM 8251A at 1R13.  The OEM leads were around 2R4.  The meters do take a few seconds to give a reading but that also isn't a big deal to me.  I have never had nor never will have a need for instant response.  The meter will also not be a daily driver.  There is supposed to be several 1000's  of hours MTBF of the parts so use will be occasional if something strange is happening or there is an outright failure.

I bought 2 of these instead of a Fluke 101.  They suit my particular needs and were quite a bit cheaper than a single 101 of which I would still replace those leads with Brymens.  As long as you understand the shortcomings of a $20 meter, I believe they will work well and I think you will enjoy.  I have better hand held meters including a Fluke 27/FM.  I needed something small and light weight to fit in my toolbag and be fairly accurate for my needs.  The Anengs fit the bill.

    Thanks. I do have an extra set of Brymen leads.

Russ

[mzacharias]

Use better probes for current-related tasks, including resistance, I would say.

Also, many if not most really cheap leads do not have sharp ends. This leads to probe slips and almost inevitable circuit damage.

[tooki]

Use better probes for current-related tasks, including resistance, I would say.

Also, many if not most really cheap leads do not have sharp ends. This leads to probe slips and almost inevitable circuit damage.

::sigh:: tell me about it. Even with sharp-as-fuck Probe Master probes, I managed to slip and short some pins and damage a lovely NOS tape deck, for which I am now hunting down unobtanium parts to fix my fuck-up...