Anyone know the driving requirements for a EUV-13B GLT4 UV bulb?

[JoeN]

I bought one of these to see if I could get some minerals to fluoresce but I don't know the exact drive requirements and can't find a datasheet.  I saw one reference that said the voltage should be 10.5V but I have no idea if that was correct or not or if it is AC or DC.  I am trying to run it at 10.5V current limited to 200mA off of the lab supply and am getting a bit of a glow, that's all.  I would try higher voltages and current but I am being a wimp.  Any ideas what the usual drive requirements are on this?

[Ian.M]

It helps if you search for GTL3, not 'GLT4'!
http://russellsrandomthoughts.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-gtl3-bulb-simple-and-inexpensive.html

[JoeN]

Thanks, I did my search on GTL3, I think I made the 'GLT4' typo only here.  Well, maybe, maybe not, hard to tell now.   But I didn't find this article.   This is very helpful.  Thank you.

[JoeN]

Yes, the guy is completely right.  It strikes around 15V.  I was being a wimp, I should have just cranked it up.  I allowed myself to be cautious because I only bought 2 bulbs and I don't want to lose 50% of them in one screwup.  I am using a lab supply to limit it to 200mA and you can turn it down to 10V after it strikes.  Thanks!

https://www.ushio.com/files/specifications/germicidal-low-pressure-mercury-arc.pdf

[mikeselectricstuff]

Be careful - these can cause eye and skin damage.

[Z80]

Don't use that bulb in the open.  If you want to experiment with fluorescence get a disco blacklight tube or UV LED torch.  Those germicide lamps produce very short wave UV and will injure your eyes and give you bad sunburn as well as produce ozone.

[JoeN]

Don't use that bulb in the open.  If you want to experiment with fluorescence get a disco blacklight tube or UV LED torch.  Those germicide lamps produce very short wave UV and will injure your eyes and give you bad sunburn as well as produce ozone.

Not only that, it doesn't fluoresce these minerals at all.   Not that I tried it for more than 5 seconds and with a bit of barrier between it and me.  I have another bulb coming that is 365nm that should be more useful.  This one was 253.7nm which I guess is not correct for fluorescing minerals anyway.  I've tried a near "UV" LED which was around 400nm which barely fluoresces the minerals, just enough to tell I am on the right track.

[Z80]

365nm is UVA and that should strongly excite fluorescent materials, it's also safe to look at.

[JoeN]

365nm is UVA and that should strongly excite fluorescent materials, it's also safe to look at.

Cool.  That is what I was thinking.  I thought these short-wave UVC might do it too and the bulbs were $5 so, why not?  Anyway, now I have two bulbs if I want to sanitize something later I guess.  Not so good with fluorescent materials, though.

[Ian.M]

More here: http://www.iar.unicamp.br/lab/luz/ld/L%E2mpadas/Ultraviolet_and_uv_lLamps.pdf

Sustained DC will probably kill them.

You can probably build an EPROM eraser with one of your 253.7nm lamps.  The arc should be directly over the EPROM's window, as close as possible while still maintaining a small air gap, with the filament plane parallel to the top of the EPROM.   

[amyk]

Be careful - these can cause eye and skin damage.

There is a somewhat long but very informational video from bigclivedotcom about this topic:



As an aside, it's weird to see a screw base and incandescent form factor for what is essentially a UV arc lamp.