Thanks for the info, I'm learning a lot here...
Since I'm an not experienced with FETs (I worked with NPN and PNP a lot, not FETs), I've got a little confused by some specs.
V GS is like +/-20V in datasheets... that confused me a bit, but I guess it means the maximum voltage difference that can be applied to G-S, not the "full on" value (lowest RDSon). Thanks to Jeroen3, now I know what to look for in a datasheet. Also, I've read while studying the circuit I plan to do that there are power FETs that turn fully on at over 12V, which is higher than 10V tipical output of the IC in question... ==> higher RDSon ==> higher heat output.
I've also saw a "max power" of 4-500W while "max I D-S" was like >40A... 600V * 40A = 24KW!? What does this means... does it go up to 24KW (with proper heatsink) or it is capped at 500W? E.g. from the datasheet of STW65N80K5, linked here:
VDS: 800 V
RDS(on): 0.08 Ω
max. ID: 46 A
PTOT: 446 W
and later in the datasheet: PTOT == "Total dissipation at Tcase = 25 °C" which implies that this is the heat optput at max. load, not the supported power. Does it handle 36.800W (800*46)?
The ideea is to oversize the FETs for the requirements, so they will work as cool as possible, without any heatsink, beeing enclosed in a small plastic box inside a brick wall... I will not draw 1.100W in any normal use case, I just provision the PCB and components for that. (1100W is 11 * 100W classic light bulbs, and I plan to go for hallogen or even dimmable LEDs, if I find good ones -- different story). I do have a working version with triac, but that's not ideal for what I plan to use.
I know that LEDs will take a lot less, arround 15W for 1000...1500 lumens, so 1.100W is overkill, but dimmable ones are expensive and hard to find (today, at my location at least), so probably I'll go for hallogen ones (easier to find, but they take 75W at same output) and worst case I'll kill the planet with classical 100W bulbs...
Also, I have to be carefull with blowed bulbs, the breaker trips when one burns out, and I do not want to fry the components if that happens... the breaker should have enugh time to trip before the power FETs will give up or heat up too much to cause trouble (like a fire... a damaged PCB or component can be replaced but not the whole house).
Therefore, I hope I'm not wrong when I assume the following:
- the PCB traces should handle over 5A (1100W)
- the power stage should handle >450V and >10A before needing a heatsink
given that:
- input AC is 230V nominal and can go over 250V in normal use (+/- 10%)
- the planned max. load is 1000W (10*100W incandescent bulbs), probably 750W (10*75W hallogen bulbs), ideal <200W (10*15..20W LED bulbs)
- the minimum load can be as low as 1 LED bulb (<20W at full ON; triacs can/will missfire at this low load)
- the actual load will vary between 1 bulb and 10 bulbs, depending on install location