Nozzle and bed temperatures were basically already set to those values because I saw that on Amazon and/or the spool tag. Initially I may have accidentally ran at 200 degrees C the first time it jammed, but then changed it to 220 and then 225 based off your advice (although you said 230). Bed temperature has been at 50 too and the nozzle setting is a default 0.4mm. I'm uncertain if my nozzle is 0.4 or 0.5, but I've never tinkered with this setting since I never had clogging issues until now.
Also, I had tinkered with layer height by decreasing it to 0.15, but changed it to to your recommended 0.25mm.
Unfortunately it jammed again with basically all the settings suggested, this time at maybe a layer or two higher than before, but still jammed.
When I pull out the filament, after it unwinds from looping to the outside, it makes sort of a suction sound leading me to believe it's feeding too slow and getting bunched up inside the nozzle.
Ignoring that I doubt printing a knob with TPU will be ideal (I think you're correct MarkF, it will be too soft), the part may be too small so the retracting is causing the end to curl and/or it's getting curled due to sitting in the nozzle for long periods while the head prints the small sections of the knob.
Attached are the default values of my slicer. It's unclear which is the "print speed", but maybe the one I tweaked to 30mm/s was incorrect.
MarkF, on a side note, I didn't realize TPU came in different shore ratings. Buying the TPU filament was a spur of the moment decision to tinker with different material, so I didn't investigate at all. It does seem the knob either has a rubber overlay or was dipped in something (good eye). After looking closer, the main section is hard plastic and then I see a small line indicating different material. So a fully printed TPU knob may not be similar unless, as you suggested, I go with a 98A, but then I'm diving into buying approx. $20 spools to experiment with printing a knob.