Where do i adjust the axis then ?
Not done by scaling right ?
Why is there no calibration in the ender 3 pro ?
The printer has a way to set the number of motor steps per mm for each axis (X, Y, Z and the extruder). My printer is across town so I can't tell you the exact menu item to choose for this, but it's there. Here's the thing, though: the firmware from Creality has hardcoded constants for them that are correct for the hardware. They know the size of the bed and the number of teeth on the gear that drives the belts and they know the diameter of those gears so there is no real reason to change those constants. When you slice your design, you get gcode that says "move to this position" and the Marlin firmware knows how many steps it has to move each motor to make that happen. As long as the machine is stable this works.
The exception to that is the extruder motor. Surely you've come across the statement, "Calibrate your E-steps!" and the reason you need to do this is because every spool of filament has slightly different diameter (from the nominal 1.75 mm). You can test the accuracy of your extruder motor by telling it to extrude 100 mm of filament and then measuring how much you actually got. Then there's a simple formula to get the value of E-steps to enter into your printer.
As for everything else: remember that all movements in the machine are relative to some known home position. Home position is determined by moving each axis until hit hits the home limit switch. X and Y are not really all that sensitive because all they do is control where on the bed the filament gets extruded. If your X origin is off by a few millimeters, it doesn't really matter -- the entire print will be offset from the corner of the bed by that much.
The Z axis is critical. It's what sets the position of the nozzle with respect to the bed. And there are a couple of variables here: the Z axis limit switch (which tells the firmware "this is home!") and the four bed-leveling adjustment knobs that move the corners of the bed up and down. The "calibration" here is that you set the Z axis limit switch location to something that allows for reasonable adjustment of the actual bed height. That is, when you tell the machine to move the Z position of the nozzle to "home" it should go to very close to the bed. It can't be actually touching the bed because you can't extrude the first layer. So the idea is to set the bed about 0.1 mm below the nozzle at "home" everywhere on the bed. The usual recommendation is to use a piece of printer paper, which is about 0.1 mm thick, as reference. (or a feeler gauge if you have one.) Then you "level" the bed by moving the head to X and Y positions over each of the adjustment screws, and you put your calibrated paper between the nozzle and bed and you should have a bit of friction as you move the paper. No friction? Move the bed UP in that corner by turning the knob. Too much friction or the bed is touching the nozzle? Adjust the knob to move the bed DOWN. Repeat for all corners. And do it again to be sure. And maybe check the middle of the bed.
By the way, do your bed level adjustments when the bed and nozzle are both at working temperature (usually 60ºC bed/200ºC nozzle for PLA). The beds warp and change slightly with temperature.
To answer your question: there's really no "calibration" that the machine can do by itself. The above is really all you need to do.
Oh, I forgot: you do want to make sure the temperature-control loop is working properly. The firmware uses standard PID to control temperature and there's a simple procedure to allow the machine to auto-tune the loop for a given working temperature.
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