Author Topic: 3D Printer yet?  (Read 377245 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1950 on: June 09, 2021, 11:16:06 pm »


Boring Mundane Everyday Print #188: FrankenFan Foot Fillers

Printing up these filler pieces to make it so the rubber feet on FrankenFan can reach the floor; I resurrected my favorite fan by grafting a base off a different one to it, but had to stretch the fu** out of the base, which warped the bottom all to Hell. But it works. :P

Printed on my Diggro Alpha3 3D in FLASHFORGE Brand BLACK PLA; 0.28LH, 60mm/s, 200°C/60°C Bed, no adhesion, no supports, infill 20% grid, 1.2mm top/bottom thickness & 0.8mm walls, with combing & bridging mode enabled and part rotated to benefit bridging.

mnem
I can't hear you saying how ugly it is over the sound of that cool breeze from my favorite fan being back in service.   :-DD
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1951 on: June 10, 2021, 05:47:55 pm »
Boring Mundane Everyday Interesting Fun Project Print #788: Thumb Throttle for eBike

      

While I wait on bits for my fatBike, I've dragged out the boy's 26" MTB which has that hub motor already installed. This kit came with a motorcycle-style twist-throttle; it simply will not work with the MTB which is equipped with twist-shifters both sides already. I could order a thumb-throttle, but anything that would get here before the summer is almost over costs $40 plus, and still won't reach around the body of the twist-shifter like this one is designed to do.

Object is to bond the thumb-ring using epoxy to the little bit with the magnet (even this little cheapie uses a Hall sensor) cut off of the old twist-throttle; this whole assembly will then be sandwiched between the twist-shifter and the brake lever inboard.

Lets see if it works as well as I hoped; the layout was much easier than originally planned for trying to design the whole thing with magnet holder/retainer/return spring stay, and the wall thickness was just not reasonable for any real strength with FDM anyways.

Printed on my Diggro Alpha3 3D in FLASHFORGE Brand BLACK PLA; 0.28LH, 60mm/s, 200°C/60°C Bed, no adhesion, no supports, infill set manually to 2mm grid, 1.2mm top/bottom/wall thickness, with combing & bridging mode enabled and part rotated to benefit bridging. Total time:67 min

mnem
 :popcorn:
« Last Edit: June 10, 2021, 10:08:50 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1952 on: June 10, 2021, 08:49:54 pm »


And here it is, all put together on the bike; while I was in there, we upgraded to a 4" riser gooseneck and installed the brake levers from the eBike kit which have kill-switches for the ESC in them.

With all that crap in one spot on the handlebars, getting everything right where it needs to be is a bit of a juggling act. For now, I have the thumb ring bonded to the magnet ring with just 3 dots of CA until we have a chance to test it, just in case I have to break it apart and re-clock the thumb-peg to a different idle position.

I really like this arrangement; it feels quite natural with the thumb-peg wrapping around the body of the twist-shifter. I like it better even than the thumb-throttle I paid money for to put on my fatBike.  :o   I may wind up doing this again real soon... ;)

mnem
 :-/O
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1953 on: June 11, 2021, 03:41:50 pm »
« Last Edit: June 11, 2021, 03:43:22 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1954 on: June 13, 2021, 02:26:50 pm »
Needed a fascia mount for a Deans Connector and no way in hell I am paying $10 for one and having to wait for it as well :palm:

So Rolled my own. I really need a slimline one  for a particular job so a custom was needed really. It is something I had sort of been going to do for some time. Stupid thing had to be measured in both fractional and decimal thousand of an inch before I modelled it :palm:

Plan will be scuff up both bits and a little Epoxy for grip and hold.
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 

Offline mawyatt

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 3918
  • Country: us
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1955 on: June 13, 2021, 02:30:47 pm »
Needed a fascia mount for a Deans Connector and no way in hell I am paying $10 for one and having to wait for it as well :palm:

So Rolled my own. I really need a slimline one  for a particular job so a custom was needed really. It is something I had sort of been going to do for some time. Stupid thing had to be measured in both fractional and decimal thousand of an inch before I modelled it :palm:

Plan will be scuff up both bits and a little Epoxy for grip and hold.

Nice work!!!

What do you use for the electrical connections and what filament is good for this kind of application?

Best,
Curiosity killed the cat, also depleted my wallet!
~Wyatt Labs by Mike~
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1956 on: June 13, 2021, 02:37:50 pm »
Stock R/C connector good for around 60A is the base components. There is also plenty of junk copies out there but 'some' are sort of ok if you have to. The pin alignment on some of the clones is terrible (really stiff) and the gold plating is trash unlike the real deal.

« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 02:39:52 pm by beanflying »
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1957 on: June 13, 2021, 03:12:41 pm »
Fuck Deans' connecters with a shovel.

Then set fire to all of 'em and use the shovel to bury 'em. The only thing I'll use 'em on is my floor sweeper, and that only because recycling them saves decent connectors for real work. I will never have a unshrouded connector on any of my RC craft ever again. :rant:

No, seriously... good design work, but I have misgivings, as I know these connectors intimately, and I know their weaknesses.  :palm:

Even if your caps only have 1mm over the part, that's 2mm of contact area taken away from a connector that has always been sub-par. I would also be concerned that there will not be adequate pin engagement to prevent fall-apart, something I know from personal experience that these things are prone to do under the best of circumstances.  |O

You can get AMASS XT60s next day from Amazon over here for ~$20/10 pairs; these are known decent quality and they come in bulkhead and PCB mount varieties now. I know you hate Amazon, but they have the right thing at a sane price, so...  :-//

mnem
Friends don't let friends use Deans'.   
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 03:16:27 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1958 on: June 13, 2021, 03:31:16 pm »
Boring Mundane Everyday Interesting Fun Project Print #789: Dual Kobalt Drill Battery Clip for eBike

            

Those bits came for my fatBike, so I'm back to work on it. I rebuilt the rear wheel with proper CNC aluminum spacers for the brake rotor to get rid of the printed mockup part, and a extra-long axle so I could bolt the original kickstand back on it. Now that's done, it was time to make up a proper battery holder; since my trials with a single 24V Kobalt Drill Battery with wires gaffer-taped in place went so well, I decided to make the actual battery clip so it could hold 2 in parallel for twice the joy. ;)

I downloaded the original design from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4331642 but didn't feel like going through the hassle of converting to work with it in Frustion360, so to make the thing a bit thinner, I just moved the X axis -8mm such that the bottom 8mm of the part was "submerged" below the build area. This forced Cura to start the slice at that point, making the stack 16mm thinner. :-+

I originally thought to "merge" the two parts in Cura as I'd done with my 18650 cell holders; then I realized that A) this would mean lots of unsupported intricate areas on the bottom clip, and 2) it meant a looooooong print with pretty low chance of success.

However, by printing each clip as a single piece, I got high chance of success as there are few unsupported areas, and in this orientation they present well to the layer fan for bridging. Also, I can run both printers and cut total time in half... tho I did wind up with one glossy and one satin finish part. meh. :-//

Once the wiring was done, I then glued the two pieces together with CA; doing it this way allowed me to use the natural shape of the part to keep wires nice & tidy. Those screwed on covers do hide a multitude of sins however; there's some ugly soldering and because I'm not using the same connector blades it was designed for, I had to melt the connectors in place.  meh and a half.  :-// :-//

All in all, I'm quite happy with the result; it is not exactly pretty, but will function exactly as intended.   8)

Printed on my CReality CR-6SE in XINGTONG ZHI LIAN Brand Black PLA, and my Diggro Alpha3 3D in FLASHFORGE Brand BLACK PLA; 0.28LH, 60mm/s, 200°C/60°C Bed, no adhesion, no supports, infill set manually to 2mm grid, 1.2mm top/bottom/wall thickness, with combing & bridging mode enabled and part rotated to benefit bridging. Total time:5.2 Printer Hours

mnem
*zoom-zoom*
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 03:33:56 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1959 on: June 13, 2021, 03:51:28 pm »
Fuck Deans' connecters with a shovel.

Then set fire to all of 'em and use the shovel to bury 'em. The only thing I'll use 'em on is my floor sweeper, and that only because recycling them saves decent connectors for real work. I will never have a unshrouded connector on any of my RC craft ever again. :rant:

No, seriously... good design work, but I have misgivings, as I know these connectors intimately, and I know their weaknesses.  :palm:

Even if your caps only have 1mm over the part, that's 2mm of contact area taken away from a connector that has always been sub-par. I would also be concerned that there will not be adequate pin engagement to prevent fall-apart, something I know from personal experience that these things are prone to do under the best of circumstances.  |O

You can get AMASS XT60s next day from Amazon over here for ~$20/10 pairs; these are known decent quality and they come in bulkhead and PCB mount varieties now. I know you hate Amazon, but they have the right thing at a sane price, so...  :-//

mnem
Friends don't let friends use Deans'.   

 :bullshit: I have 20 years plus of use of Deans connectors and dozens in use. I am yet to have one fail or cause issue. Apart from my big Helis which run 6mm bullets and the small stuff they are what I am invested in.

AMASS / ST's were not even a glimmer when I started flying Electrics and I see ZERO resaon to change.
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 

Offline CatalinaWOW

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 5464
  • Country: us
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1960 on: June 13, 2021, 04:18:33 pm »
From my point of view the only "valid" complaints against Dean connectors are:

1. They are un-shrouded.  You can imagine cases where this could cause a problem, but only a tiny bit of care solves the problem.

2.  They can be quite difficult to disengage.  Hard to grip and significant removal force.  Never had one come close to falling apart.  This problem is worse on clones and extends to engagement. 

3.  Due to their popularity there are numerous inferior clones.  It can be difficult to assure that you are getting the real deal.
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1961 on: June 13, 2021, 04:30:29 pm »
They're crap, their claims of lower contact resistance have been thoroughly debunked, and where it really counts, they just can't carry surge current like an XT60, which is why nobody runs them on any high-performance quadcopter: They starve the motors for current, and it wobbles and falls out of the sky.

Meanwhile, XT60s happily pass more than 200A of surge current,  XT90s even more. Deans' are maybe on a par with XT30s. :-//

Even on the entry-level 250-class acro quads, you can literally feel the difference just by changing connectors. I have proven this literally dozens of times in the pits just by giving people a set for free.

No, Deans' are and always have been over-hyped shit. The original ones were fucking plated steel shit. :palm: So are the claims that all the crap ones are cheap knockoffs.

I used to swear by Deans' ; now I swear at them.

Just like when Anderson bought out SERMOS industrial connectors, and renamed them PowerPoles and they suddenly cost 10x more.  ::)

mnem
"Invested" is a poor excuse. ;)


« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 04:37:43 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1962 on: June 13, 2021, 04:56:47 pm »
At a rough guess I have been using Deans since the early 90's. Most of my airframes run BEC and no issues caused by poor connections and the genuine Deans are smooth to insert and unplug unlike most of the clones.

Deans were never "overhyped shit" we tested 4mm bullets (short and long), 6mm Bullets (stubby), Deans, Sermos and a few others. This was all done prior to the mid 90's F5 World Championships in Oz where I was involved and flew in a couple of lead up events.

The 4mm short bullets which are more or less what the XT's are with a case are better and we used them on the F5B and D packs at the time and soldered them straight on the cells which were end soldered into sticks. There was no shrouded options at that time and for ease of use and safety in handling the Deans were the easy choice.

There is simply Zero need or technical reason to change so skip the rants and heaping of shit !
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 

Offline CatalinaWOW

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 5464
  • Country: us
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1963 on: June 13, 2021, 06:14:27 pm »
They're crap, their claims of lower contact resistance have been thoroughly debunked, and where it really counts, they just can't carry surge current like an XT60, which is why nobody runs them on any high-performance quadcopter: They starve the motors for current, and it wobbles and falls out of the sky.

Meanwhile, XT60s happily pass more than 200A of surge current,  XT90s even more. Deans' are maybe on a par with XT30s. :-//

Even on the entry-level 250-class acro quads, you can literally feel the difference just by changing connectors. I have proven this literally dozens of times in the pits just by giving people a set for free.

No, Deans' are and always have been over-hyped shit. The original ones were fucking plated steel shit. :palm: So are the claims that all the crap ones are cheap knockoffs.

I used to swear by Deans' ; now I swear at them.

Just like when Anderson bought out SERMOS industrial connectors, and renamed them PowerPoles and they suddenly cost 10x more.  ::)

mnem
"Invested" is a poor excuse. ;)

A lot of this is experiential.  Sounds like an audio forum describing the depth and intense feeling of sound.  Any measured data to back it up? 

I am at least stating that I have an opinion.  The only data I have is experience.  So we are both re-enacting the audiophool style.
 
The following users thanked this post: mnementh

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1964 on: June 13, 2021, 06:20:29 pm »
What bean is talking aboot is a completely different animal; current demands were much less as we didn't have ESCs that could pass the high surge currents a modern multirotor ESC can. Steady current draw was high, but surge current is another thing altogether. In helis and planks, you have inertia on your side. With acro and race quads, you are fighting inertia every millisecond.

EDIT:
And yes, being starved for current for a few milliseconds can make a noticeable difference in an acro quad; it's not just your reflexes that matter here, but those of the processor in the flight controller. It does have reaction times that fast, and if the voltage sags instead of pushing a fast change in multiple ESCs at once, that turns into oscillation in one or more PID loops which ultimately becomes a wobble the eye can see, and lag in response you can "feel" when flying FPV.
/EDIT

The difference is in the logs... and I had years of log files showing voltage sag and surge current differences between the two on my acro quads; which proved what my experience racing dirt oval made me suspect all along: Deans' don't perform like XT60. Period.

I'm done arguing... Like I said; I used to swear by Deans', now I swear at 'em. They're a blight on RC.

mnem
Just say "No, thank you."
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 07:52:03 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline Monkeh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 8070
  • Country: gb
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1965 on: June 13, 2021, 09:07:11 pm »
 :popcorn:
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1966 on: June 13, 2021, 11:48:00 pm »
What bean is talking aboot is a completely different animal; current demands were much less as we didn't have ESCs that could pass the high surge currents a modern multirotor ESC can. Steady current draw was high, but surge current is another thing altogether. In helis and planks, you have inertia on your side. With acro and race quads, you are fighting inertia every millisecond.

Circa Mid 90's we were using the first of the Brushless motors from Aveox and Pletenburg and pulling 2000W plus from the NiMH packs for F5B/D which is why we tested the available connectors, best AVAILABLE option here was 4mm bullets. Electric Helis were just about unseen due to flight times from the battery technology. With the battery limitations of the time local non F5 contest classes were typically sub 80A draw on 7 cell packs so Deans were still a reasonable option but it was a mix of Deans and 4mm bullets.

You need to stop inflating what the needs of Quads are, the peak currents on my 3kg Electric Helis with 6S 5000's doing Acros will dwarf the typical 800g Quad loads let alone those running 5kg 12S 5000's. Fairly 'normal' to see XT90's or 6mm bulets here.

Current F5B 'Gliders' are running circa 3-5 second bursts at about 3000W. SPACE is why they don't generally use XT's the plastic shroud and wire lead in and out, you need a shoehorn to get the packs in. There is simply no one shoe fits all!

Quote
EDIT:
And yes, being starved for current for a few milliseconds can make a noticeable difference in an acro quad; it's not just your reflexes that matter here, but those of the processor in the flight controller. It does have reaction times that fast, and if the voltage sags instead of pushing a fast change in multiple ESCs at once, that turns into oscillation in one or more PID loops which ultimately becomes a wobble the eye can see, and lag in response you can "feel" when flying FPV.
/EDIT

The difference is in the logs... and I had years of log files showing voltage sag and surge current differences between the two on my acro quads; which proved what my experience racing dirt oval made me suspect all along: Deans' don't perform like XT60. Period.

I'm done arguing... Like I said; I used to swear by Deans', now I swear at 'em. They're a blight on RC.

mnem
Just say "No, thank you."

You are completely WRONG on this! Raving and heaping more generalized sweeping and emotively written  :bullshit: with no foundation about Deans Connectors while considering only one narrow use case while making a definitive 'demand' for non use is DUMB. Use of the 'appropriate' connector that delivers extreme reliability is what is important and has ZERO to do with brand A or B!

And while I am at it using a fairly basic spade type connector on your e-bike while preaching XT supremacy is kind of 'interesting'  >:D
« Last Edit: June 14, 2021, 12:10:38 am by beanflying »
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 

Offline Microdoser

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 423
  • Country: gb
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1967 on: June 14, 2021, 09:54:49 pm »
 

Offline Brumby

  • Supporter
  • ****
  • Posts: 12388
  • Country: au
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1968 on: June 15, 2021, 02:53:54 am »
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1969 on: June 15, 2021, 04:20:20 am »
:popcorn:

 :popcorn:

 :popcorn:

(Sorry, I couldn't help myself)

Nothing to Eat here you bunch of pervs  >:D

Sort of related to a video on making timing belts back a bit but more for calculating and making models of Racks and Pinions but I included a Belt designer too. I have tweaked the Parameter to create a GT3 version so just change the static dimensions should be fine for other belt geometries.

Suggested use is only use it to generate the base plain components then use the insert derive functionality to bring it into another project at the required size/tooth count THEN SEVER THAT LINK or your new model will update to this one in the current tooth count! So keep this as a master gear/belt/rack creator. https://a360.co/357uhVM Then in your main model add holes bosses and cheeks or tweak as needed.

Only modify the circled Parameters as needed to generate the models. It is possible that some of the models Tangencies will break when you change Parameters so you might need to retweak Sketch Ones Seven Tangent constraints (remove then redo if needed) to look like the attachment below for reference.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2021, 04:22:41 am by beanflying »
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1970 on: June 15, 2021, 02:50:45 pm »
What bean is talking aboot is a completely different animal; current demands were much less as we didn't have ESCs that could pass the high surge currents a modern multirotor ESC can. Steady current draw was high, but surge current is another thing altogether. In helis and planks, you have inertia on your side. With acro and race quads, you are fighting inertia every millisecond.

Circa Mid 90's we were using the first of the Brushless motors from Aveox and Pletenburg and pulling 2000W plus from the NiMH packs for F5B/D which is why we tested the available connectors, best AVAILABLE option here was 4mm bullets. Electric Helis were just about unseen due to flight times from the battery technology. With the battery limitations of the time local non F5 contest classes were typically sub 80A draw on 7 cell packs so Deans were still a reasonable option but it was a mix of Deans and 4mm bullets.

You need to stop inflating what the needs of Quads are, the peak currents on my 3kg Electric Helis with 6S 5000's doing Acros will dwarf the typical 800g Quad loads let alone those running 5kg 12S 5000's. Fairly 'normal' to see XT90's or 6mm bulets here.

Current F5B 'Gliders' are running circa 3-5 second bursts at about 3000W. SPACE is why they don't generally use XT's the plastic shroud and wire lead in and out, you need a shoehorn to get the packs in. There is simply no one shoe fits all!

Quote
EDIT:
And yes, being starved for current for a few milliseconds can make a noticeable difference in an acro quad; it's not just your reflexes that matter here, but those of the processor in the flight controller. It does have reaction times that fast, and if the voltage sags instead of pushing a fast change in multiple ESCs at once, that turns into oscillation in one or more PID loops which ultimately becomes a wobble the eye can see, and lag in response you can "feel" when flying FPV.
/EDIT

The difference is in the logs... and I had years of log files showing voltage sag and surge current differences between the two on my acro quads; which proved what my experience racing dirt oval made me suspect all along: Deans' don't perform like XT60. Period.

I'm done arguing... Like I said; I used to swear by Deans', now I swear at 'em. They're a blight on RC.

mnem
Just say "No, thank you."

You are completely WRONG on this! Raving and heaping more generalized sweeping and emotively written  :bullshit: with no foundation about Deans Connectors while considering only one narrow use case while making a definitive 'demand' for non use is DUMB. Use of the 'appropriate' connector that delivers extreme reliability is what is important and has ZERO to do with brand A or B!

And while I am at it using a fairly basic spade type connector on your e-bike while preaching XT supremacy is kind of 'interesting'  >:D

All you show here is what you don't know, bean. I've been through this over and over with non-acro/non-race flyers, and you just don't WANT to understand. That's fine.

What I can tell you is, if you go to any event/park/model airfield where they're actually racing quads with Deans' on your rig, they'll literally laugh you out of the pits. Same with acro flyers.

You seem to think I know nothing of Helis... they were what I flew before I got into quadcopters. And no, you have no idea how those have evolved since you used to fly, either; it is obvious. ::)

Today's multirotor aircraft are doing amazing things... and they are doing it because the amount of instantaneous current they can pass through the power system has evolved non-linearly over the last decade. Literally an order of magnitude greater than what you are familiar with.

YOU are the one who's wrong here, bean. I literally don't have enough time to fully educate you either... this is more than a decade's worth of knowledge earned the hard way working with the people who make the damned things. If you actually bother to dig deep into it and educate yourself, you'll find out that what I'm talking aboot is common knowledge among those who do race and fly acro quads.

Just like the disagreement I had with C aboot how these ESCs actually work; these are not just a simple H-bridge speed controller operating with fixed timing anymore.  ::) They are much more complex than any ESC you ever used on any plank or Heli you ever flew, and they literally cannot fly the way they do with the kind of ESC you are familiar with. Those are just plain too slow, too stupid, and cannot pass enough current fast enough to do the job.

All the really cool innovation in RC over the last few generations has been driven by the demands of these craft; the sophisticated telemetry, ultra-low latency RC protocols becoming the new minimum standard, HD FPV and HUD, even process control based on the input from that telemetry... it is all trickle-down from the boom in FPV multirotors.

As for the spade connectors... who fucking cares...? This is not a electric motorcycle; this is a 250W booster motor with VERY low demand. It draws a 2AH drill battery down in ~15-20 minutes; and that is a 4-5 yr old pack that is nowhere near optimum anymore. I'll let you do the math. :palm:

The spade connectors, BTW, are what come in the kit; they are clearly adequate for the load this kit is intended to handle. I just recycled them as they work very well with the connectors in the battery itself. The OEM main wiring is 14ga, which is why the jumpers wired to the 2nd pack are 16ga; there is no need for more.

EDIT:
Okay; that all does sound a bit condescending... and maybe there is a bit of that tone. I'm sorry, I don't mean to be that way. Just... how would you feel if I told you everything you know and have learned the hard way aboot making coffee is wrong, irrelevant or BS just because you cannot distill it down into a few sound-byte-sized sentences...? You get tired of having to argue stuff that you know is right and had to learn yourself the hard way with people who just won't admit that what they already know does not apply here.

I've many times conceded that you know a whole lot more aboot the science and art of how to make somebody a good cup of coffee... mostly our differences arise from A) I just can't be arsed to roast & grind every pot fresh and 2) I grew up on ranch coffee, and as a result any coffee that hasn't been "fully cooked" doesn't taste right to me.

That last point, BTW, is a disagreement that has been argued back and forth in countless forums over the internet over the years; it is a discussion I've seen and been part of at least a dozen times going back to useNet days. :-//
/EDIT


mnem
*goes back to doing things that are actually interesting*
« Last Edit: June 15, 2021, 03:55:58 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1971 on: June 15, 2021, 03:39:50 pm »
All that aside... much of my hatred for Deans' has to do with having actually dealt with them directly as a distributor; their attitude towards small vendors was literally punitive, and they made claims to their resellers (which they expected you to propagate) that were obviously false to anyone with actual electronics knowledge.

That compounded with my own personal experiences as a racer at the same time has soured me on the brand, much the same way as Samsung's consumer electronics products.

Lets just call it irreconcilable differences. ;)

mnem
Yeah... like the fact I couldn't reconcile their marketing wank with Ohm's Law, for one... |O
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1972 on: June 15, 2021, 04:12:14 pm »
If you continue down the path of condescending and arrogant 'education' you don't have time for :wtf: As to experience yep we both have some and if you continue to try and make this a pissing contest - DONT because no one wins those!

XT's remain an 'option' where appropriate and not 'the only option' and they never will be something that you fail to remotely even consider it seems. If you attend any world championship F5B or D you generally wont see XT's in use they simply won't fit in the airframes. Use of small twisted lantern 4mm or 6mm bullets is what is used.

Going back to Deans and their use the bottom line is it Sucks for you to be WRONG. Deans work and are reliable for general use and since I started using them 25+ years ago I have had ZERO failures with them. No amount of multi paragraph rants from you will make this not so. Are they ok at 100Amps nope but I don't use them for the few Airframes I own in that class. Likewise they are not ok for my sub 8 oz indoor and micro gear either nor would XT's be.

Offering up old debates or really off topic strawman topics is to what end? None of this is even close to having any relevance and is now way way off the topic of 3D printing.

Yep I mentioned the spade connector for a reason it is like the use case for Deans not inappropriate and FIT FOR PURPOSE and works that is the bottom line.
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 
The following users thanked this post: CatalinaWOW

Offline mnementh

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 17541
  • Country: us
  • *Hiding in the Dwagon-Cave*
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1973 on: June 15, 2021, 08:05:02 pm »


Enough. My reasons for hating Deans' are legitimate and manifold; both because of the design and the way they did business with me.

Sure, there are still places where they can do little harm; my floor sweeper is one of them. Good place for 'em. I will still recommend that's where they all go, along with the company.

mnem




« Last Edit: June 15, 2021, 08:10:24 pm by mnementh »
alt-codes work here:  alt-0128 = €  alt-156 = £  alt-0216 = Ø  alt-225 = ß  alt-230 = µ  alt-234 = Ω  alt-236 = ∞  alt-248 = °
 

Offline beanflying

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 7375
  • Country: au
  • Toys so very many Toys.
Re: 3D Printer yet?
« Reply #1974 on: June 16, 2021, 03:01:29 am »
Quit with the condescending dismissive crap now it is NOT a technically valid point! The reply I penned last night was rewritten multiple times before I hit the button, I tried to play nice but your ongoing tone SUCKS and you are way way over the line!

Your clash with the company is of ZERO consequence and letting Ego intrude into a debate on an items technical merits it frankly pathetic.

As you want to continue a meritless argument shove it where the Sun doesn't shine  :--
Coffee, Food, R/C and electronics nerd in no particular order. Also CNC wannabe, 3D printer and Laser Cutter Junkie and just don't mention my TEA addiction....
 


Share me

Digg  Facebook  SlashDot  Delicious  Technorati  Twitter  Google  Yahoo
Smf