3D Printer yet?

[mnementh]

Yup. Frustion360 "Not For Commercial Use" version.
It's a love/hate relationship; I love tinkering and printing useful stuff, it loves to ...

Anybody else having problems with page loads and "SMF Couldn't connect to database" errors...?

mnem
My freezer gel-pack has become permanently molded to the contours of my junk, I swear... 

[mnementh]

   

Rev 3 finished while I was out grocery shopping... it fits perfectly, and alignment is perfect as well. I can feed filament in at the end of the PTFE tail and as long as I make the usual diagonal cut on the end with nippers, it feeds through everything without a miss. Switch cavity, exit tube, inlet of extruder and through the pinions all the way down to the Bowden tube and hotend.

I'd post more pics, but evidently eevBlog is having database connectivity issues; it keeps me.

I'll get on that later; think I'm gonna make my dinner and torment the kiddles over TV time.

mnem
 

[tautech]

Anybody else having problems with page loads and "SMF Couldn't connect to database" errors...?

Yep, intermittent and been reported:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/website-error-reports/msg3394026/#msg3394026

[MarkF]

mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?

In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.

I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.

I have been using FreeCAD also.
I found the videos by Joko Engineeringhelp very helpful.
Just noticed that he has some Fusion 360 videos also.


These two in particular have been very helpful:

[mnementh]

Just spent the afternoon unbricking my CR-6 after it had a cow over the SD card I used for a FW update. Now it is doing a 36-hour print; the first layer took 1 hour 41 minutes and covers nearly the entire bed.

Should be interesting.

mnem
*knocks self unconscious with a NAND mallet*

[beanflying]

Never to old 98 year old using a 3D Printer  https://youtu.be/9sKKan_Q9VU?t=690 The whole video is worth a watch and contains gratuitous tinkering and uplifting content 

[Tomorokoshi]

mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?

In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.

I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.

I have been using FreeCAD also.
I found the videos by Joko Engineeringhelp very helpful.
Just noticed that he has some Fusion 360 videos also.


These two in particular have been very helpful:
...

I kept getting stuck with FreeCAD. Many of the operations would produce errors, and I couldn't get good online solutions for them.

I looked at Autodesk Fusion 360, and decided to try it out. I made an account and worked through a collection of videos. While it's way more than I need for my project, it looks usable without too much overhead.

From there I went back and looked at Autodesk Tinkercad. The same Autodesk account works with it, so I'm trying that out also. While it's seems to be targeted to schools and "amateurs" (me), it should cover the needs I have. It appears to be a nice way to start with 3D methods before getting overwhelmed with software meant for corporate use.

[CatalinaWOW]

Many obscure errors occur in all CAD programs due to geometry errors.  Matching edges so they visually match isn't enough.  For reasons I can't explain FreeCAD does seem more susceptible to this, but understanding the class of problem will assist in any software.

[MarkF]

The biggest 'aha moment' for me with FreeCAD is expressed in the 2nd video.
The 'Part Design' workbench does NOT play well with others.

I now design most parts by creating multiple bodies within the 'Part Design' workbench.
By creating sketches and then padding or pocketing, I'm able to make most parts.
I'm by far still a novice with FreeCAD.  But, the workbench interaction made a big difference for me.

The same author has a nice comparison between FreeCAD and SOLIDWORKS.

Hope that helps those wishing to pursue FreeCAD.

[mnementh]

I spent aboot 30 minutes with FreeCAD when Frustion360 servers went down a week or so ago; I couldn't figure out how to actually open a project and start creating anything. I figured if it was that obtuse, I had no hopes of figuring shit out like splitting bodies and rescaling in a single axis.

One thing I did discover recently aboot Frustion360 is that it appears they've quietly reintroduced the ability to select a body from the browser, right-click on it, and "Save as STL" which is rendered locally.

That went away for a while shortly after I started using it; it was how I used to save everything locally because I couldn't figure out how to EXPORT as STL.  No idea how long since it came back.

mnem

[mnementh]

      

To put that last pic in context... here's my wife's "Perfect Art Supplies Caddy" drafted (hopefully) to specification.

Aaaand... she doesn't like the grab holes.

mnem
*drops back and punts*

[mnementh]

So now edited, and in process.

We be farmin'... for the sake of domestic tranquility.   

mnem
 

[mnementh]

urrrk. 36 hours printing, and the handle area just snapped off picking it up and shaking it a little. I thought a 8mm cross-section ought to be more than enough; the cups are only 2mm across and strong enough to stand on. 

I had random brittleness/layer adhesion problems with this filament before, when I was making the slide whistles; in fact, this project was partly just to use up this filament I got for free with the CR6.

The rest of the print seems very strong, so I'm thinking of mitigation solutions right now. Top of the list is to design and print a new handle out of the blue filament with concentric pattern in the stress plane, and epoxy it to the thing. We'll see how that works out once gird my loins for another wrestle with Frustion360. 

mnem
Hell is other people's software.

[Tomorokoshi]

urrrk. 36 hours printing, and the handle area just snapped off picking it up and shaking it a little. I thought a 8mm cross-section ought to be more than enough; the cups are only 2mm across and strong enough to stand on. 

I had random brittleness/layer adhesion problems with this filament before, when I was making the slide whistles; in fact, this project was partly just to use up this filament I got for free with the CR6.

The rest of the print seems very strong, so I'm thinking of mitigation solutions right now. Top of the list is to design and print a new handle out of the blue filament with concentric pattern in the stress plane, and epoxy it to the thing. We'll see how that works out once gird my loins for another wrestle with Frustion360. 

mnem
Hell is other people's software.

How about instead of a 3D plastic handle, rivet a leather strap as a handle on it.

[mnementh]

Naaahhh... it'd get in the way of it being used.

I figured out the why and the fix; the why is just plain stress in the wrong plane, where the print is weakest. Not designing with the material in mind. D'oh!

I'm working on the part now; if I lay it face down and slice with concentric pattern, the part will be inherently much stronger in the stress plane, without making the center cup unusable.

mnem
Iterative design, yo.

[Mr. Scram]

That's why so many printing channels test materials in two orientations.  Though sometimes it pays to have a two part solution just so your layers aren't working against you. Like with any other process, design for manufacture saves a lot of pain.

[mnementh]

That's why so many printing channels test materials in two orientations.  Though sometimes it pays to have a two part solution just so your layers aren't working against you. Like with any other process, design for manufacture saves a lot of pain.

Yeah, I really haven't figured out what the magic combination is with that filament. I did DP-icorn (several of him, actually) with the stuff and it printed just fab. The slide-whistles and vertical region of this part... not so much. 

I figure it's mostly a matter of "you get what you pay for" and this was the roll they threw in for free with the CR-6SE.

The body of the caddy turned out pretty  decent, and the grab handle I designed actually does kindof tie it all together, so a net win. Epoxy is curing on that; now it's just a matter of churning out another half-dozen bins.



I had a print fail yesterday due to worn-out roller on the hotend plate; rather than wait for new rollers I reinstalled the CR-10 plate/MicroSwiss hotend & 'fang parts cooler, and I'm now using the CR6 0.40 nozzles on both printers. 

It's working awesome; problem is, it's printing too pretty now.     I may have to reprint the ones I already did so the finish texture matches.

mnem
 

[pipe2null]

I have successfully 3D printed G1/4 to 1/2inch hose barb pipe fittings that are fully air and water tight, but my yield is just awful, only 1 out of maybe 10 have the planets align just perfectly enough that the part actually passes my "water submerged with low pressure compressed air" test.

The biggest source of leaks for my parts have been the seam of the outside perimeter, and inner perimeters that have the seam aka start/end points aligned with the outer perimeter seam within the same layer, which makes for an effective micro air/water duct through the wall.  I'm sure there are plenty of other micro-gaps in the print, but it's hard to see other issues when all the bubbles from the biggest culprit is obscuring all the other problems...

Does anyone know of a slicer that that exposes settings to control "over-running the perimeter" and/or "inner/outer perimeter start offset within each layer"?
Basically, in an attempt to seal the perimeter and eliminate the micro-duct created between the start and end point of the perimeter (usually referred to as the seam"), I want to see if squishing in a bit more plastic after the normal end point of the perimeter will fix the majority of through-the-part-wall leaking.  Same question for offsetting perimeter starts within the same layer.  I've been using Prusa Slicer exclusively and they have settings to adjust where the seam is located layer-to-layer, but that is the full extent of applicable settings I am aware of...  I do not expect to get 100% perfection for air/water tight prints, but increasing the yield better than 10% would be a nice start.

[mnementh]

I have successfully 3D printed G1/4 to 1/2inch hose barb pipe fittings that are fully air and water tight, but my yield is just awful, only 1 out of maybe 10 have the planets align just perfectly enough that the part actually passes my "water submerged with low pressure compressed air" test.

The biggest source of leaks for my parts have been the seam of the outside perimeter, and inner perimeters that have the seam aka start/end points aligned with the outer perimeter seam within the same layer, which makes for an effective micro air/water duct through the wall.  I'm sure there are plenty of other micro-gaps in the print, but it's hard to see other issues when all the bubbles from the biggest culprit is obscuring all the other problems...

Does anyone know of a slicer that that exposes settings to control "over-running the perimeter" and/or "inner/outer perimeter start offset within each layer"?
Basically, in an attempt to seal the perimeter and eliminate the micro-duct created between the start and end point of the perimeter (usually referred to as the seam"), I want to see if squishing in a bit more plastic after the normal end point of the perimeter will fix the majority of through-the-part-wall leaking.  Same question for offsetting perimeter starts within the same layer.  I've been using Prusa Slicer exclusively and they have settings to adjust where the seam is located layer-to-layer, but that is the full extent of applicable settings I am aware of...  I do not expect to get 100% perfection for air/water tight prints, but increasing the yield better than 10% would be a nice start.

Maybe experiment a little with deliberate over-extrusion, and put up with the additional cleanup required...? Maybe get a die to run over the finished part if it's got pipe threads on it...?

For testing, I suppose you could coat various areas with epoxy to isolate where the problem spots are.

mnem
 

[CatalinaWOW]

I feel like these prints will be much like castings.  Hard to assure zero porosity.  A low viscosity epoxy, an anaerobic curing material (like loctite) or other sealing solutions may be the fast and easy way to watertight parts.  Or as I have done on several items, just accept the leak rate.  In my applications it didn't affect function, it was just a desire for perfection which I was able to get over.

[mnementh]

Yes, Cura has a whole passel of layer seam settings, including random location.

I was just trying to think of a solution which might improve pipe2null's yield, even if parts weren't pretty. Endgame here is that a successful design may simply have to be made by molding & casting rather than 3DP the final product.

Molding/casting really is not that difficult; there are a number of reinforced resins out there that can easily produce serviceable small fittings airtight up to 50-100 PSIG.

And of course, Cura has a mode explicitly for slicing a model into a mold.

mnem
 

[CatalinaWOW]

For low pressure water use a dip in hot paraffin will probably do the trick.

[mnementh]

   We be farmin'... for the sake of domestic tranquility.   

mnem
 

Printed the last bin this morning. Wife didn't even let me finish the thing; she's been filling bins as they come off the printer.

Vital stats:

230mm W x 210mm D x 130mm H

650gr Bloo filament, 325gr White filament, 10gr epoxy.

~4 hours total design time, 2 hours post-production, 2 hours head-scratching, mostly after the handle broke off the base.

~45 printer hours in blue filament, ~35 hours in white filament.

White filament cost: $0 (project largely to use up free roll that came with CR-6SE)

Bloo filament cost: $15 (US$23 *.650kg)

Teacher wife made all happy with her "Perfect little caddy that fits right where I want it!" : Priceless.

mnem
Next victim...

[beanflying]

Somewhere in here there might be a 3D Printer or more likely a custom PCB/Thin board engraver/mill. eBay auction: #184604850121 Estimated start date 2022-2024 

[mnementh]

Somewhere in here there might be a 3D Printer or more likely a custom PCB/Thin board engraver/mill. eBay auction: #184604850121 Estimated start date 2022-2024     

Didjoo win it...?

Yeeg... all that for ~US$109.  And that seems to be the norm, not an exception. People spend so much on multiple printer kits and stoopit upgrade BS; but not willing to spend a dime on actual fundamental parts. 

There's a reason I gave my last Tevo Tarantula away... it was worth more to me as a gift than the cash I could extract from it. 

mnem