3D Printer yet?

[beanflying]

why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!

Simon as you are supposed to be a MODERATOR here act like one. NO ONE is making you read this or if you are subscribed then unsubscribe from the topic. Seriously way out of order AGAIN 

[Mr.B]

MTCW…

I think Simon is being too harsh.
There are very few threads here covering 3DP.
Personally, I purchased my printers for making enclosures for my projects, as well as the odd adaptor, etc.
I like to see what people are doing with their printers. It helps fuel the imagination.
All credit to @mnementh for posting layers, walls and infill – that is good information.
Even a follow-up with things like *Well, 20% infill was not enough for that boat anchor, try again*.

By the end of the week I will have finished my fume cupboard.
Since I started the other thread *SLA 3D printer yet?*, you can be sure I will be contributing to it…

Keep it up @mnementh.

[mnementh]

      Left side finished. Looking good, fits the 54645A like it was made for it. Which it was. Now printing right side.

mnem
*wanders off in search of caffeine*

7.5 hours; 40% done. Fortunately, printing a wedge does progress exponentially.

mnem
*goes back to hoeing out his drawers in anticipation of the new cart setup*

Uggh. 14 hour print... test fit and I find I made a 5mm error on one of the walls, which put the rear foot pocket offset wrong by 5mm.  And I measured it twice! only thing I can figure is I must've measured the same side again...

Now printing V2.  Fortunately, fixing that error does save me ~2 hours of print time and filament.

For those who're interested:

BLACK PLA, Default Temps of 200°C/60°C, 0.28mm LH, 20% Infill Cubic pattern, 1.2mm walls, Brim adhesion, Only on Outside, 2mm wide, with Brim Distance at 0.2mm to make Brim easy to separate. No supports as no overhangs.

Printing Left side, I had RETRACTION turned OFF as it saved over 2 hours on the print (I always check on rectangular shapes; it can make a lot of time difference for just a little extra cleanup); however there were literally handfuls of strings diagonally across the inside corner. It cleaned up well as seen in my pics, but as I'm letting this one run overnight, I think I'm gonna let it do the work instead of me.

mnem
*toddles off to ded*

[Simon]

Well I have had a few complaints but the topics that long that meh, do as you please only a few people will still be reading maybe those that don't like it should stop readitg.

[beanflying]

And our complaints about YOU being rude? Ignored as per usual. Seriously learn some manners OR handle it via a PM even as is done elsewhere to keep the tone more civil instead of aggressive rants from a Mod

Back when I started pushing THIS topic as a bit of a catch all for 3D printing along with some others it has ALWAYS contained projects of random, settings and non electronic items. There has been precisely ZERO complaints in the topic about frequency or posts or style of those of us posting here. It is an Informational thread and contains a lot of good background on the topic. No one is forcing ANYONE to read or be subscribed to this thread and non  contributing whiners should avoid doing so.

[RobinSm89]

I watched a video about 3D printers all weekend. This is awesome. Now I really dream of buying this car for myself, I somehow did not pay attention to them before, but it turned out to be a very interesting thing!

[olkipukki]

Now printing V2.  Fortunately, fixing that error does save me ~2 hours of print time and filament.

Uggh. 14 hour print... test fit and I find I made a 5mm error on one of the walls, which put the rear foot pocket offset wrong by 5mm.  And I measured it twice! only thing I can figure is I must've measured the same side again...

I have a model that estimated printing time is.... over 40 hours (!!!) 
Not yet press 'Start' button, will keep for a couple weeks to cool my brain off until I forget how did all measurements etc
 

[Mr. Scram]

What the actual fuck...?

Seriously? Who gives half a damn if I post that...? At least I put something here from time to time. Sure, we can let the thread dry up and blow away; just that much less content for Dave.

Because you know, there's so much aboot 3DP on here already...

Aside from that, like most of my posts I include actual details of what I'm doing, the settings I use, and why. This is the sort of thing people into 3DP do care aboot.

mnem
*back out into hell*

If I'm totally honest using the exact same posts here and in the TEA thread is bit much. Sharing is fine, double posting may be a bit overboard.

[Simon]

Shall we just drop it? The thread is that old that it does not matter.

[mnementh]

   

Okay... now what WAS a annoyance has cost me actual productivity and wasted filament: The shitty filename handling in printer firmware, which is compounded by Cura's insistence on prefixing all filenames with a printer descriptor in a really wasteful way. Between them, I have exactly 8 characters of useful filename on the CR-6SE, and what is displayed wastes 9 characters. 

My Diggro's implementation is better; it handles 24 characters in the list, and up to 32 characters in the file Dialog when you select a file, but for some reason it turns a underscore into 3 wasted spaces.    Neither firmware has any way to see the whole filename. 

I realize some of this is Marlin and some is the FW in the touch panel... but it's still a PITA to have to outwit the slicer and the FW when someone somewhere in either product should have seen what a dicksore it is and fixed it by now. I feel like I'm back in the stone age of MS-DOS with 8-character filename limit FFS.

HOW did this cost me productivity and wasted filament? Cura saved the revised file to my camera card which was plugged in elsewhere on the PC, and it did so without asking which card to save to. If I'd actually been able to see the entire filename on the printer, I'd have caught it at time of launch. But between the confluence of these 3 factors, I ran the print job all night... approx 7 hours of a 13 hour print... and didn't realize it was the same wrong model I'd already made. 

Yeah, sure... I coulda shoulda triple-checked the card from within Windoze before I plugged it into the printer... but in a 32-bit/64-bit world, we really shouldn't still be hamstrung this way.

The takeaway for me...? No matter how much you want the job done, it's not wise to launch a print run at 3AM when you're so tired your eyes are watering...

mnem

[mnementh]

Urrrgh. Oklay... the prefix Cura uses is determined by using the first character of each word in the printer name in the Cura Profile, but this is not the same as the name you give it in Cura. So to set a simple 2 or 3 char prefix, you need to edit the Cura profile. And keep editing it every time Cura updates. 

Yup... just gonna turn the prefix off altogether: Settings> General> Opening and saving files> UNTICK Add machine prefix to job name.

mnem
Next.... victim.

[beanflying]

Shall we just drop it? The thread is that old that it does not matter.

A bit like your SECOND Off topic post here dismissing the threads relevance within a day? Please unsubscribe as clearly YOU have no interest here while others reading and posting do

Urrrgh. Oklay... the prefix Cura uses is determined by using the first character of each word in the printer name in the Cura Profile, but this is not the same as the name you give it in Cura. So to set a simple 2 or 3 char prefix, you need to edit the Cura profile. And keep editing it every time Cura updates. 

Yup... just gonna turn the prefix off altogether: Settings> General> Opening and saving files> UNTICK Add machine prefix to job name.

mnem
Next.... victim.

So do I take it I shouldn't install Cura and use it anytime soon  I did load up Cura in the middle of the year to try and went back to Prusa Slicer.

Tiredness and the file saving issue aside I have been keeping a one SD/printer thing 'standard' on my three. The LABELLED SD holders sit in the bits tray in front of the printer when the cards are in the printers. Touch wood this has worked fine 'so far' and it means that any sliced models on that card 'should' suit the printer it is in front of. Karma will no doubt bite me for this comment within the next ......

[mnementh]

I like Cura... to me it the most user-friendly of the freebies, easily by a factor of 10; plus the feature-set just keeps getting better and better. 

If I could be arsed to tinker in the Cura Profiles I could make a lot of stuff better aboot it; there are whole workshops online for Cura, just like every other bit of software involved. I think it's just a matter of what you get used to more than anything. I got used to EAGLE FFS... 

As for the cards... yeah, I have a similar sorting factor built-in, as the DIGGRO uses Micro-SD while the CR6 uses a standard SD card. And I have a couple old SanDisk PlusUSB SD cards I keep for just such devices.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

This is probably my most ambitious design to date in terms of tolerances; it is a filament guide for my DIGGRO which uses PTFE tube tails and incorporates the filament sensor switch. Ever since I upgraded to the red dual-cog extruder, I've had the sensor just hanging off the filament.

Location of the switch against the filament feed and absolute location of the filament exit with regards the inlet on the extruder need to be pretty precise; we'll see how well I did.

Printing at 0.16mm LH, Default 200°C/60°C, NO Adhesion aids, Support Everywhere for the mounting slot, Walls 1.2mm/Top/Bottom 0.8mm thick, and infill again set manually at 1mm/Grid pattern as I'm putting screws through the piece and this makes thin plate-like parts much more rigid against compression. Bridging Mode is enabled in hopes it will make cleaner inside surfaces on the mounting slot. Orientation as seen left-to-right to best present work to cooling fan.

mnem
 

[beanflying]

Way back when I did a similar one for the Ender/CR10 https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/msg1913924/#msg1913924 The sweep up was to allow for top mounting of spools.

Also a non sensor version with the STL in a Zip file.

[Tomorokoshi]

I just got a Creality CR-6 SE. By whatever measure it isn't the ideal machine, but it appears to have enough features that I can learn from and utilize it quite a bit for the initial intended applications.

I shopped around a little, and as a resource I used this actual thread. The "personal blogging" nature of the posts here are a good resource about issues one may encounter with a 3D printer, the nature and application of projects that are possible, techniques for using the software, methods of design for best results, sources of design files that may be useful, time and material estimates, and other such things.

[mnementh]

I agree; like all of CReality's product, the CR6-SE is not the best printer out there; lots of others make more accurate and neater prints. There is only so much precision you can get out of V-channel and urethane rollers.

That said... a few quirks aside (primarily the cheap power switches first-production-run units came with, and a sporadic QC issue with the MB), the CR6-SE is the closest to a turnkey solution I've seen from any of the China-Direct cheapies. Turn a few screws, plug in a couple cables and the fucking thing just plain works. I see it as the perfect entry-level machine; cheap enough to get you started without major wallet pain, good enough a printer that it isn't wasted money when you are ready for a better machine.

Definitely a world of hurt less misery than my first Tevo Tarantula, I tell you whut.   

@bean - OMG... page 6.  Was it really that long ago...? 

mnem
98 fukkin-percent!!!

[mnementh]

      

Right side of wedge base is finally effing finished... and it fits the scope like it was made for it.  This wedge raises the 54645A up 90mm at a point just behind the front feet; I put on rubber feet which adds another 5mm. This base does not block any airflow out of the 'scope; in fact, it directs the exhaust right towards the vented back of the UTG962E to keep air moving through.

I'll post lots more pics tomorrow in the 3DP Knobs & Feet thread. Just got the DIGGRO Filament guide started printing...

mnem
Everybody needs something to believe in; I believe I'm going to bed.

[MarkF]

A few comments on Cura:

Cura has been my only slicer since I bought my CR-10 Mini.
I updated it several times on two laptops that I use (one Win10 and another Win7).

Recently, I started having problems running versions 4.7 and 4.7.1.
I can no longer run the newer versions.
On one computer I was running 4.7 and after updating to 4.7.1 it would no longer start.
I can not even go back to version 4.7 that had been successfully running.
Essentially, Cura will not complete the few initial configuration popup windows after a new install.

I now have reverted back to Cura 4.6.2 (the newest that runs on both computers).

Anyone else having problems running the newest versions of Cura?

________________________________________________________________

Checkout my changes to Marlin 1.1.9.1 to display the current layer number while printing instead of the elapsed time. 
It will work on any printer that uses the original CR-10 display. 
I never found the display of elapsed time while printing to be very helpful. 
The change defaults back to displaying the original elapsed time if the Cura layer comments are not found.
    https://www.eevblog.com/forum/embedded-computing/show-layer-number-while-printing-on-creality-cr-10/
Also, try out the three frame fan animation.  Much better than the default.

[mnementh]

No problems with Cura loading for me, and I've updated 5 or 6 versions now. I suspect a uninstall failure in your case; I'd look in the Cura forums for advice on how to manually uninstall everything and start over.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

   This is probably my most ambitious design to date in terms of tolerances; it is a filament guide for my DIGGRO which uses PTFE tube tails and incorporates the filament sensor switch. Location of the switch against the filament feed and absolute location of the filament exit with regards the inlet on the extruder need to be pretty precise; we'll see how well I did...

Sooo close. I could use it if I wanted to do some filing and shim the switch out with washers; I did in fact do so to figure out how far off I was on the offset. I took a few pics while I was doing the prep work to test & fit.

   

"Supports Everywhere" does just that... it puts them everywhere. This one looks like it's going to be a major PITA... long holes can be especially miserable little gawddammitts.

One thing that helps greatly on holes where a screw will thread into the plastic, is to do a CHAMFER-2 DIRECTIONS in the design stage. Small m2-m3 screws like this I'll chamfer 0.1mm in the diameter direction, with a depth direction of 2-3mm. You can see them in the design pic below.

A side benefit of this habit is that supports inside the hole come out much more easily; press against the sides of the support inside the hole and wiggle with a jeweler's screwdriver or dental pick to break them loose and even this 20mm long support just pushes right through.



Large flat support structures sandwiched between plates like the bottom of this part can be a real PITA; here a razor scraper is your best friend. Slip it between the part and the support  like so; go all the way around the perimeter and repeat at the covalent area on each plate to separate both sides of the support.



Then force a screwdriver under the support at the back of the slot, and lever outwards; the support will come out in a single piece.



This one is usable as-is; sometimes you'll have to do a little cleanup scraping inside the slot with with an old paring knife.





Since I wasn't happy with Rev 1, I am now printing Rev 3; Rev 2 got canned in redesign stage. This is what Iterative Design is all aboot; a couple hours and 50c worth of filament later and I'll have one that should fit exactly as desired. 

mnem

[MarkF]

No problems with Cura loading for me, and I've updated 5 or 6 versions now. I suspect a uninstall failure in your case; I'd look in the Cura forums for advice on how to manually uninstall everything and start over.

mnem
 

The strangest thing is that the one laptop had been running Cura 4.7 okay and now I can't get it to run anymore after trying 4.7.1.

Like you, I have updated many versions before. Versions 4.7 and 4.7.1 are the first ones I've had problems with.  I have always uninstalled the previous version before installing a new one.  All the uninstalls appeared to run okay and all of the program files were deleted.  I even went so far as to remove anything I could find related to Cura from the registry.  I believe Cura is having problems with the graphics card.  Except 4.7 was running okay with the graphics card before trying to install 4.7.1.  Cura does't seem to want to display the main window after running through the initial popup configuration windows.

No luck.  Haven't tried version 4.8 that was just released.

I'm back to running Cura 4.6.2 without problems.  Don't know if I'm missing any goodies in the new versions.
______________________________________________
Just passing on some issues I've had with Cura.
Thanks all.

[Tomorokoshi]

mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?

In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.

I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.

[Mr.B]

mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?...

He has probably gone to bed...
But, I will throw in MTCW.
I use the *Not for commercial use* free version of Fusion360.
Steep learning curve, but very powerful design software.

[beanflying]

mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?

In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.

I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.

I have been using the Startup Free version of Fusion 360 for the last couple of years and this topic might give you a few ideas and some links for good you tube tutorial videos to look at  Stated before my 2020 got slightly derailed  https://www.eevblog.com/forum/eda/fusion-360-mechanical-design-tips-tweaks-and-discussion-(not-eagle)/msg3084200/#msg3084200

Will leave mnementh to confirm but he was getting to terms with Fusion after a little initial pain