3D Printer yet?

[beanflying]

I think I will stick to my stock CR-10S and Ender 3's motion systems at this stage. Still and interesting mod for a 'cheap' printer.

To F'ing Hot in the shack (42C and still climbing) today so I am doing some CAD in the cooler house where it is a 'pleasant 31C 

Couple of spring loaded mods for my cheap Track Saw. It is the Ozito/Bunnings one and sold in the UK and likely elsewhere by Lidl. The blade cover could have been done with Tape but I did it for the exercise. The other holds the saw down to the track on the non blade side which becomes a factor on Mitre cuts where the saw centre of mass is beyond the track and the saw is free to fall off. 

The cut out for this one looks for all the world like this sort of insert or kickback protector was in mind but to save a $ not fitted. Two countersunk screwholes from under the bed will be needed and brass threaded inserts in the 3D part to hold it in place.

The dust cover is a maximum thickness of 4.5mm (spring diameter from a pen salvage) so it clears the blade and also still allows the saw to run on the blade cover if needed (door trimming among other uses). It runs a 10 degree dovetail to hold the latch section in place and will use a threaded insert to hold the blade into the joint with the spring for retention.

Also trying out the local render on Fusion 360 which is something you should not do unless you have a good PC it still takes around 2 minutes to more depending on the project. I need to learn how to play with the environmental settings to get some better results. The online render for Fusion works fairly well and generally takes 10-20 minutes to come back to you from the ether.

Two of my Printers are actually working in the heat without me 

[Jan Audio]

There is also creality CR-X 2 colors.
Dont forget 2 heads = double power usage.

[Monkeh]

There is also creality CR-X 2 colors.
Dont forget 2 heads = double power usage.

Nonsense. Not only do you not run both hotends at full temperature for the entire print, the hotend is not the primary power consumer.

[Jan Audio]

No, then what is ?

[Monkeh]

No, then what is ?

The heated bed, usually..

[beanflying]

Interesting idea if you need to bend up a small enclosure or panel 

[Jan Audio]

Then i go trying bed on 30 degrees, or totally off.

[Alfons]

No, then what is ?

The heated bed, usually..

That's right. On average, the hotend consumes about 30W, with the motors in operation, controller, LCD, Raspi, Led etc. I get 78 watts without a heated bed. Since my heating bed runs on 240Volt, a small 100W power supply is sufficient. The heating bed burns most of the power when starting up. When the temperature is reached, the PID controller adjusts and this then consumes significantly less power. Usually, the devices are equipped with 200-300 watt power supplies, so a second hot end would not really be a problem (especially since both are not always heated anyway). It damages the filement if it roasts too long without any support in the hot end.

[beanflying]

More Hardcore Press tooling and testing. Anyone calls 3DP weak or fragile point them here 

[xrunner]

Next up - X and Z axis linear rails -

[xrunner]

Rails installed. Works great! Need to mod the camera bracket and the fan shroud I had before (or use a different model).

[beanflying]

Interesting PCB workstation option Jonathans take on it adds to the files and is worth a watch as is the rest of his videos.



Files here

Original https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3615910

Jonathans Mod https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3969675

[beanflying]

Decent start to the day 12 hours in and I didn't have a visit from the Spaghetti Monster overnight about another 10 hours to go is the guesstimate. 80m+ of Filament 6 layers all over and 30% infill.

This is the main part of a Hybrid Redesign for the Bosch PDP40 Pedestal Drill. The next bits are the 3D printed knobs and hub assembly to replace the dicky wheel.

You also need a Laser cutter to make the MDF Router Template because Lasers are cool too 

Why 3D print the flange? Because it is far more accurate than non CNC woodworking tools for circular holes/alignment and more than up to the strength requirements due to the Steel column and bolts through the part making up for any Layer strength concerns.

[beanflying]

Not the longest print I have done on the Ender but it is up there. 20 Hours and 5 minutes. Now if only the shack temperature would drop below it's current 43C on the bench maybe the print would release from the bed  Fridge as a release method anyone or do I use the big close fitting base as a lever 

EDIT 15 minutes in the fridge and it popped off the bed as per 'normal' 

[xrunner]

People might not know it if they aren't familiar with 3D prints but that piece is strong and hard and tough as nails. 

[beanflying]

I would call it slightly over Engineered  4 layers and 25% would be 'OK' but based on other similar bushes I have made this is bomb proof.

For others considering doing something like this I recommend getting to know your printer and the tolerances you need or print short test segments. I actually did a quick 10mm high 2 wall 25% section of the main flange to test it on the drill shaft, I wasn't to worried about the outer as the wood could be tweaked if necessary. My guess on the slight oversize (0.3mm) felt snug so I went with it. The final bush needs just a slight push on the drill for it to slide down to depth and the alignment dowel it really tight in the slot (get your collective minds out of the gutter at this point  )

For 4-8mm bolts I generally make holes 0.2mm oversize unless they really need to be tight and the centre smooth diameter of the knurl nuts is a good starting point. These where possible I position so the fastener is pulling them into a wall of plastic rather than trying to push them out. The Lateral hole in the pick for example is the locking pin for the drill and there is 5mm of plastic with the knurl nut getting inserted from the internal bore (see the pic in a previous post while printing), the verticals are 6mm from memory.

Likely commercial costs on getting this made $100 and more likely $150+ (plastic or aluminium) compared to under $7 total for plastic and it would still have needed an accurate sketch or a long talk and leave the drill to get it made elsewhere. My printers now help buy me Beer with the savings 

Torx Security bits because the biggest hardware chain in the country only had 8mm available with those heads 

[CatalinaWOW]

Cost savings are just one of the advantages, maybe not the most important.  My printer has nearly paid for itself printing knobs and similar bits for test equipment.  But this weeks task was a case where the cost savings are minor.  Replacement tubing caps on a piece of lawn furniture I am refurbing.  Needed six caps of one size and four of another.  With enough time searching the internet I am sure I could have found something usable for under a dollar apiece.  Even if I had to re-order a couple of times because the fit wasn't perfect on the first try the cost would have been small enough to ignore, but the whole process could have taken weeks to complete.  Even including my baby CAD skills I was able to come up with a parameterized design and have the parts printed in a couple of days.  Perfect fit and style match.  Future repairs of similar gear will be faster because I now have a flexible design in hand.  The option to monogram the caps is their and much harder to obtain from the internet.  So many reasons to 3D print.

[beanflying]

Time for a Coffee while Bertha warms up, it is a 110V 220W iron made by the American Electrical Heater Co from Detroit. Normally attaches to my variac but that is buried in my container in a safe place. When hot it can easily handle roofing iron  Decided the 8mm ones are beyond the normal iron.

edit: Love it when a plan comes together  Flush true and centered time to swap over to the old base so it can drill the replacement. Inserts fitted and snugged into place. Tomorrow maybe play with some Shellac and Wax for finish.

[xrunner]

When Nozzles Go Bad

Getting crappy prints, take out nozzle, inspect, see dirty caking, replace, work 100% better ...

Go figure 

[xrunner]

3D printed clamps anyone?

[beanflying]

To small for my woodworking needs  I am going to make some clamps to go with a Dog bench along with 3D printed Dogs. I have tweaked the diameters for accuracy and they most certainly don't need the mallet

Just for completeness and for those wondering why I would make a different base for a perfectly good brand new drill. It is so I can make vertical holes in panels without the pedestal getting in the way. Without making any mechanical changes to the drill I can now see easily and drill 40-50mm below the drill on any sized panel be it metal or wood. In stock this drill is limited to 120mm to the center and most are under 200mm.

Couple of coats of Water based Varnish over the ply for some protection. Single grubscrew at the rear to slacken off and put it back on the standard base.

EDIT: Test drive on the 16 middle holes. 20mmx40mm deep into MDF  Time to Shellac the Dog Hole bench for a little protection from oopsies.

[beanflying]

  At least is comes with Linear Rails  Mains Bed with suspect wiring what could go wrong .....

Nice 

[beanflying]

Don't know if this is needed but I have decided to give it a go after the success with my internal TCT 20mm champher tool I came up with an idea of making an external tool for trimming the brim from 3D prints using the same cutter.

I have a swiveling deburring tool which works well on internal holes for cleanup or adding a bit to the champher and it also works fairly well on flat sided prints but it falls over for trimming discs and outside curves in particular for smaller radius ones. Using a knife doesn't work that well and sanded or filed PLA can get a bit melty.

So this concoction is try number 1. The blade is adjustable over a 5mm travel from -1 from the face to +4 inside the face which I think would cope with most prints and 'normal' fillets and champhers I use at least. Bottom of the cutter tip sits 1mm below the underside flat as it is only designed to cut a brim back.

Thoughts, ideas are welcome and I am going to sleep on the idea before printing it tomorrow.....

[RoGeorge]

For me, each time a 3D printer seemed to be needed, I have improvised some workaround that doesn't need 3D printing.

Already have all the parts of a custom design 3D delta printer sitting in a box for a few years now (except the printbed and heatbed), but never took the time to assemble them all together.  Should I?

So far it looks like an unnecessary yet another tool to fiddle with (most probably at each print), and periodically clean the dust off of it.  Also fumes (used inside), and buzzing stepper noises for hours, not to say the risk of it catching fire when left to print unsupervised.

Does it all worth?  Does a filament 3D printer justify itself once you have it?

[beanflying]

Fumes with PLA are a non issue but for ABS you will really need a cover over it to raise the temperature for printing and then extracting the fumes is a really good idea. The cover fixes the dust issue too My two Enders fit inside a converted glass fronted commercial fridge so the noise in minimal. I haven't run ABS but I have ducting and fans to add to the fridge in the next few months for extraction.

In the last few daysI have been doing a small run of custom Dogs for a woodworking bench and the champher cutter above. These bits in metal would have run well over $100 USD for me to buy instead I have a cost of sub $10 and a bit of power.

There were 15 prints in total all on one of my Ender 3's and apart from removing the prints from the cooled bed and starting the next one from the SD card and letting it do it's thing I haven't even cleaned the bed or had to adjust a thing. The printer has just chugged along while I do other things.

As to a DIY delta personally I wouldn't bother 'now' as the entry cost and likely perfomance of even an Ender as an example will be better for way less $.

As you have a chunk of the parts changes that a little if you proceed and most likely go through a bunch of teething problems I doubt I would want to spend the time and suffering but if you do let us know