You'd only use f/16 with a large format camera owing to diffraction limiting, but the camera they used, the Hasselblad 500el, was larger than 35mm (Wiki says 56mmx56mm). With a modern high grade DSLR the resolution is much higher than the finest grain film NASA would have used and with a DSLR you'd probably want to keep the aperture more open than f/8 when possible. Hand held you want shutter speed so there's no particular need to stop down above f/8. But, with larger format you can go higher in f/# before diffraction kicks in.
Brian
This is drifting into photography technique, but I'll just point out that the 60mm Biogon they used on the lunar surface had a maximum aperture of
f/5.6, so you couldn't open up much beyond
f/8 if they wanted to, as they only had one more stop to play with. Also, there's a bit of trade-off to get the sharpest pictures, between diffraction, depth-of-field, and desirability of a fast shutter speed to freeze motion blur. Depth of field would have been an important constraint, because the lens was manually focused, and incompatible with a reflex finder. That means the astronaut had to estimate distance, and manually turn the focusing ring to the proper distance, without any feedback of seeing how well-focused the image was in a viewfinder. I suspect they mostly just set the lens to the hyperfocal distance for the aperture, but that technique works better at smaller apertures. The lens had available stops of 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, and 45, so
f/16 was right in the middle of the scale. I don't know what actual shutter speeds and apertures were used.
But anyway, the "sunny 16" rule, which all photographers knew in the days when cameras without built-in light meters were common, is just a starting point. It's convenient to remember, because it's the aperture that works when the shutter speed is set to the reciprocal of the film speed. Of course you can open up the aperture while speeding up the shutter, or you can close down the aperture while slowing down the shutter, while maintaining the same exposure.
My point in mentioning that rule was just to show that consistently good exposures aren't hard to achieve with manual cameras that don't have light meters, as long as you know what the lighting conditions are going to be.